National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Q&A with Ansel Mullins, co-founder of Culinary Backstreet­s

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WHAT MAKES PORTO DIFFERENT?

There’s so much to say about the cuisine here, from tripe to octopus fritters, but my favourite aspect is that the city is a window into the kitchen of the entire north of Portugal, which experience­d waves of migration over the past century. In short, there’s much more to Porto than Porto, which is what makes it Porto.

PORTO IS FAMED FOR THE GUTBUSTER SANDWICH KNOWN AS THE FRANCESINH­A. WHAT ELSE SHOULD FOOD LOVERS BE TRYING?

People line up for a bifana [a type of sandwich] at Conga, but I go there for a bowl of papas de sarrabulho, cumin-laced offal stew, which is a tasty reminder of the influence of the Minho region to the north.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE SHOP?

Step into Casa Arcozelo, a tiny shop by São Bento Station, and you’ll be greeted by its septuagena­rian owner from Arcozelo selling cheeses and smoked meats from his hometown, east of Viseu.

Culinary Backstreet­s offers small-group food tours of Porto lasting five to six hours for $125 (£90). culinaryba­ckstreets.com

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