What to ea t & where

MARITOZZI FROM LINARI Legend has it that these creamfilled buns were traditionally given to girls by suitors (‘ marito’ means ‘husband’ in Italian). A breakfast staple, they’re typically followed by an espresso. pasticcerialinari.com

SUPPLÌ FROM TRAPIZZINO Don’t miss these balls of seasoned rice, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs then deepfried. Take a bite to reveal an oozing heart of mozzarella.

trapizzino.it

PIZZA BIANCA FROM PANIFICIO PASSI Don’t be put out if you turn up and see no pizza bianca behind the counter — it simply means the two-metre lengths of dimpled pizza dough are being prepared for cooking. Join the queue and enjoy one fresh from the oven. Via Mastro Giorgio 87.

FRIED ANCHOVIES

FROM LA TORRICELLA Dusted with flour, deep-fried and served with a wedge of lemon. If you’re visiting in winter, follow them up with a warming bowl of bean and chestnut soup.

la-torricella.com