National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Where to shop in Rome
POLVERE DI TEMPO
For the past 30 years, Adrian Rodriguez Cozzani — the self-titled ‘time artisan’
— has been studying and painstakingly restoring time measurement instruments that have fallen into disuse, like hourglasses and sundials. In his Trastevere shop, visitors can also find a range of hand-built, travelinspired mementos, including maps and reproductions of 15th-century globes.
polvereditempo.it
MASSIMO MARIA MELIS
Via dell’Orso has long been a street of craftspeople, and among its artisans is costume designer-turned-goldsmith Massimo Maria Melis. He uses age-old techniques, including stringing his intricate creations with Roman Empire-era coins and cameos, to revive traditional Roman, Etruscan and Greek fashions. massimomariamelis.com
ANTICA CACIARA TRASTEVERINA
This delicatessen has been a Trastevere institution since 1900, and is still run by the same family. The counters are packed with artisanal delicacies, ready to be served in a sandwich or vacuum-packed for longer trips. Among the handwritten labels, look out for pecorino romano DOP, a cheese with protected status that’s been made in the Lazio region since Roman times.
facebook.com/anticacaciaratrasteverina
ANTICA CARTOTECNICA
Half stationery store, half museum,
Antica Cartotecnica is a treasure trove for lovers of the written word. There are elegant pens, leather notebooks, typewriters, ink bottles, vintage pieces and collector’s items. Located between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, the store first opened in
1930 and is replete with walnut furnishings and old-school writing paraphernalia.
anticacartotecnica.it
RE(F) USE
After working for the fashion behemoth founded by her family, Ilaria Venturini Fendi decided to apply her know-how to… waste. She’s the founder of Carmina Campus, a brand that collects end-of-line, vintage or defective fabrics and gives them a new lease of life as one-of-a-kind accessories and furniture. Pieces from her collections are on sale at Re(f)use, her store in central Rome. carminacampus.com