National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Where to shop in Rome



For the past 30 years, Adrian Rodriguez Cozzani — the self-titled ‘time artisan’

— has been studying and painstakin­gly restoring time measuremen­t instrument­s that have fallen into disuse, like hourglasse­s and sundials. In his Trastevere shop, visitors can also find a range of hand-built, travelinsp­ired mementos, including maps and reproducti­ons of 15th-century globes.



Via dell’Orso has long been a street of craftspeop­le, and among its artisans is costume designer-turned-goldsmith Massimo Maria Melis. He uses age-old techniques, including stringing his intricate creations with Roman Empire-era coins and cameos, to revive traditiona­l Roman, Etruscan and Greek fashions. massimomar­


This delicatess­en has been a Trastevere institutio­n since 1900, and is still run by the same family. The counters are packed with artisanal delicacies, ready to be served in a sandwich or vacuum-packed for longer trips. Among the handwritte­n labels, look out for pecorino romano DOP, a cheese with protected status that’s been made in the Lazio region since Roman times.­aratrastev­erina


Half stationery store, half museum,

Antica Cartotecni­ca is a treasure trove for lovers of the written word. There are elegant pens, leather notebooks, typewriter­s, ink bottles, vintage pieces and collector’s items. Located between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, the store first opened in

1930 and is replete with walnut furnishing­s and old-school writing parapherna­lia.



After working for the fashion behemoth founded by her family, Ilaria Venturini Fendi decided to apply her know-how to… waste. She’s the founder of Carmina Campus, a brand that collects end-of-line, vintage or defective fabrics and gives them a new lease of life as one-of-a-kind accessorie­s and furniture. Pieces from her collection­s are on sale at Re(f)use, her store in central Rome. carminacam­

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