National Geographic Traveller (UK)

12 hours in Pigneto

The city’s most exciting district is a magnet for Romans looking for a good time. From admiring art to bar-hopping, here’s the perfect way to spend an afternoon in the offbeat neighbourh­ood

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12PM: LUNCH AT BOTTIGLIER­IA PIGNETO

Open from morning until the wee hours, this Pigneto institutio­n serves everything from brunch to after-dinner snacks. Start with cured meat or avocado toast topped with prawns, and wash it down with a glass of vino from the 19-page wine list, curated by Italian region.

bottiglier­iapigneto.it

2 PM: TAKE IN THE STREET ART

Although there isn’t an official trail, you’ll find the best-known works around Via Fanfulla da Lodi. This is where the director (and Pigneto resident) Pier Paolo Pasolini shot

Accattone, which focused on gritty, working-class life. Keep an eye out for the various visual interpreta­tions of him and his films, as well as political murals on Via Giovanni Brancaleon­e.

4PM: LEAF THROUGH LIBRERIA TUBA

As you’ll gather from the many political murals, Pigneto is a hotbed of activism, and you’ll find Libreria Tuba at its beating heart. Cross the railway line to this feminist bookshop, which has a cafe serving farm-to-table food, fair-trade herbal teas and artisan beers, and regularly plays host to events. libreriatu­ba.it

5.30PM: S TART THE BAR CRAWL

Stroll the Via del Pigneto, from Via Grosseto to Via L’Aquila; it’s around about now that many bars and restaurant­s will be waking up. Popular spots include Cargo, Mabel and Mezzo, the latter a vermouth bar that tempts with its impressive array of fortified wines. Birra+, a beer bar that stocks rare brews, is also worth seeking out.

7PM: APERITIVI AT NECCI DAL 1 924

Take a villa built in 1924, craft its lovely garden into a seating area and you have

Necci dal 1924 — perhaps the most elegant spot in Pigneto. There’s a great wine list, but you’re here for the atmosphere, which feels like a refined corner of the Villa Borghese gardens.

necci1924.com

8PM: DINNER AT L A SANTERIA DI MARE

It can be easy to forget the coast is only half an hour away from Rome, but this lovely little seafood restaurant reminds you of just that. Come for the excellent frittura di paranza

(fried fish platter) or a seafood twist on the classic Roman pasta dish bucatini all’amatrician­a. lasanteria.it

10PM: CO. SO

Finish the night at Co.So Cocktail & Social. The new menu riffs off Freudian thinking, with drinks designed to spark childhood memories or drop you straight into reverie. The highlight? A carbonara sour: guanciale- swilled vodka with whisked egg, lemon and a piece of pasta for a straw.

 ?? ?? FROM TOP: Pigneto’s renowned street art, which often has a political slant; aperitivo at Necci dal 1924, popular for its scenic garden; dusk falls in Pigneto, as locals head out to enjoy the nightlife
FROM TOP: Pigneto’s renowned street art, which often has a political slant; aperitivo at Necci dal 1924, popular for its scenic garden; dusk falls in Pigneto, as locals head out to enjoy the nightlife
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