National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Cortina d’Ampezzo is calling this winter
As Cortina d’Ampezzo prepares to host its second Winter Olympics in 2026, there’s never been a better time to visit. Plus, photographer Gianluca Lorenzi talks about his love for his home town, its spectacular surrounding nature and how it inspires his work
There are beautiful ski resorts and then there’s Cortina d’Ampezzo. The resort is nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, a chain of razor-sharp peaks that span the lush Italian province of Belluno, in the Veneto Region. These mountains are famed for their stunning rock formations and deep, long valleys that twist and rise amid meadows and turquoise lakes. Here are just a few reasons to visit, for whether you’re skiing, hiking or soaking it all up from a wooden hot tub, the town is blessed with alpine adventures so plentiful it’s achieved cult status in Italy.
1 ITS 1,000- YEAR HISTORY
Cortina may only have 6,000 residents, but it has made its mark in the history books. Inhabited since the sixth century, this small but hospitable town has welcomed traders, explorers and scientists crossing the mighty Dolomites for more than 1,000 years. During the First World War, battles between the Italian and Austrian front took place here and, thanks to local conservation efforts, trenches and tunnels from the period can today be visited year-round. In 1956, Cortina became a premier ski destination after it hosted its first Winter Olympic, an honour it has been granted again in 2026.
2 FOR W ORLD-CLASS S KIING
Cortina is home to 75 miles of wellgroomed slopes, ranging from hair-raising black runs to beginner-friendly blues. No matter your ability, don’t miss cruising down Armentarola, a five-mile run that winds through the heart of the Fanes mountains.
3 ITALIAN - AUSTRIAN FOOD
Venetian and Austrian influences mean Cortina’s restaurant menus are dominated by game and barley stews, vegetable-filled dumplings and lots of fresh pasta. Casunziei all’ampezzana, the town’s signature ravioli, is best eaten at a malga, a traditional Alpine farm. Canederli (bread dumplings stuffed with cured ham) and spätzle (gnocchi with speck and mountain cheese) are two must tries. For dessert, have the apple strudel.
4 THE PERFECT APERITIVO
One of Italy’s greatest gifts to the world is the aperitivo, and Cortina has perfected this pre-dinner drinking ritual. Apresski wine bars like Enoteca Cortina serve prosecco and soave alongside wedges of local sheep’s cheese and prosciutto. Bavarian bar Birreria Hacker Pschorr, meanwhile, rings in aperitivo hour with crisp Austrian and Italian draught beers alongside tasty wurstel sausages and sauerkraut.
THE INTERVIEW
Nature photographer Gianluca grew up in Cortina, but it took him moving away to realise just how lucky he was. He moved back and became a guide and nature photographer, and the beauty of the mountains and forest with all its wildlife still never fails to move him.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE CORTINA TO SOMEONE WHO’S NEVER BEEN THERE?
Heaven — an open valley that’s surrounded by the Dolomites. Dolomite [the region’s predominant rock type] has pink shades and, at sunrise and sunset, there’s the enrosadira phenomenon, whereby the mountain peaks take on reddish, violet hues. It takes your breath away.
WHERE SHOULD PHOTOGRAPHY ENTHUSIASTS GO WHEN VISITING THE AREA?
If you want to recreate postcards, you can’t miss Lagazuoi, a 9,300ft mountain that offers 360-degree views over the Dolomites. It’s also in front of the Cinque Torri (Five Towers) rock formations, one of the panoramas that characterises Cortina. Otherwise, not far from Lagazuoi you’ll find Lake Lìmedes, which reflects all the peaks around it. It’s a gem not many people know about.
When it comes to wildlife, you need to know the territory well. Autumn is ibex mating season, and if you go to the Dibona hut, at the foothills of the Tofana di Rozes mountain, you might spot groups of males, with bright, shiny horns. They might start fighting, running after each other, jumping over walls you never thought they’d be able to climb. You’ll definitely bring home some interesting shots.
CORTINA IS A FAMOUS SKI TOWN, WHAT SHOULD TRAVELLERS MAKE THE MOST OF IN WINTER?
We have some very technical pistes, rapid and narrow, in particular on the Tofana, which often hosts world ski championships. For ski enthusiasts, these runs are legend. On the eastern slopes, meanwhile, we have wider runs that appeal to all skiers. From this year, we’ll also have a new ski lift linking Cortina to Dolomiti SuperSki [the largest ski carousel in the world]. All ski enthusiasts should experience it. Off the slopes, there are lots of low-altitude snowshoe trails through forests, as well as cross-country skiing, with easy routes that take you off the beaten path. If anyone wants to try off-piste ski touring, there are beautiful outings you can do with a guide to peaks that are enchanting, especially if you leave early in the morning and see the sunrise. It’s hard to describe.
WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO TRAVELLERS VISITING CORTINA?
I wish travellers could learn to appreciate every moment in nature. I might be somewhere taking pictures of a wood grouse, and visitors might be there, a few feet away, without noticing it. I wish they’d learn to enjoy an outing from the very moment they leave their accommodation, without focusing on the destination or rushing to the peak or mountain hut. Getting there’s a meaningful experience in itself.