National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Q&A with pizza chef Ciro Oliva

- Ciro Oliva is the owner and chef at pizzeria Concettina ai Tre Santi. pizzeriaol­iva.it

WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES NAPLES SO INVENTIVE?

Naples isn’t just beautiful

— we’re free here. It’s a working class city, and it’s bellissimo. There’s an incredible mix of people and the whole world comes here. Day after day, great artists and photograph­ers arrive, and everyone weaves together culturally. It’s like Bangkok — people either love it or hate it.

WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO SEE THIS ‘WEAVING TOGETHER’ IN ACTION?

I love Capodimont­e — director Sylvain Bellenger has brought countless important artists to the city since he arrived in 2015, and he’s made the park extraordin­ary. I also love the Museo Madre, the modern art gallery. Its current photograph­y exhibition, for example, is dedicated to artists from the South and it really evokes what I see as ‘Neapolitan­ness’.

HOW ABOUT MODERN ARTISANS?

I really like Alberto Squillace, who makes leather gloves in Sanità. Naples has always been known for its leather workers, and in Sanità they were spectacula­r, these working-class men producing incredible gloves. Alberto’s shop Omega is emblematic of that.

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