14 hours in HAVANA

10AM

PAY HOMAGE TO HEMINGWAY

As with almost everywhere the pugnacious writer lived, Havana has preserved as much evidence of Ernest Hemingway’s life as possible. On the outskirts of the city, his old home at Finca La Vigía is now a museum, large parts of which have been kept as they were when he left to return to the US for the final time in 1960. As well as the house, there are lush grounds with an outdoor swimming pool, Hemingway’s old boat, the Pilar, and a gift shop, of course. en.hemingwayhavana.com

11.30AM

VISIT THE THEATRE

There are many grand buildings here, but perhaps none quite so resplendent as the gleaming white Gran Teatro de la Habana Alicia Alonso, designed in a neo-baroque style by Belgian architect Paul Belau. Check local listings for performances or simply take a tour. A home for ballet, opera and classical music concerts, it was originally built in the 19th century, then significantly expanded and improved in 1914. If you’re looking for classic cars, there are always some parked outside.

1PM

SIP A MOJITO

If you want to keep following Hemingway, it’s time for a drink. When it comes to cocktails — and especially mojitos — all roads lead to La Bodeguita del Medio. Hemingway allegedly loved the mojitos here and the bar displays a supposedly handwritten sign claiming as much. In recent years the owners have conceded that his statement is a forgery, but the mojitos are very real. There’s a restaurant out back serving dishes like Creole-style fish if you want to grab lunch. labodeguitarestaurant.restaurantwebx.com

3PM

CHECK OUT THE ART

By now it’ll have been impossible to ignore how creative Havana is, whether that’s music or street art. To see the artistic process up close, visit the Taller Experimental de Gráfica, just off the 18th-century Plaza de la Catedral. In here, local painters and sculptors will be hard at work near a gallery where their pieces are available to buy. If you can’t find a souvenir you like, there’s an authentic rum and cigar shop just outside. cubarte.cult.cu

6PM

KICK OFF THE EVENING

Sunset is a fine time to be in Plaza Vieja. With locals knocking off from work and musicians limbering up for a night of entertainment, there’s a feeling of electricity in the air. Unlike much of the rest of the city, the old square has been tidied up and restored to something like its fabulous best. If you’re looking for food nearby, Mojito Mojito, just off the main square, has a range of traditional Cuban dishes and Habanero specialities, as well as the titular drink, of course. mojito-mojito.com

8PM

CROWDS AND CANNON FIRE

If you’re hoping to get up close to the mighty cannon on the ramparts of La Cabaña, be sure to arrive well before the fuse is lit at 9pm. Competition for the best vantage points can be fierce, but even if you miss out, the views across to the twinkling lights of the capital city are fantastic. The procession begins at around 8.30pm, with young soldiers theatrically stomping around their base in traditional uniforms and loudly boasting of the greatness of their nation.

9.30PM

TAKE A LATE-NIGHT STROLL

To get a sense of a less formal Havana after dark, head down to its lively promenade, the Malecón. Every night — and especially at weekends — you’ll find gatherings of Habaneros here watching the sunset, listening to the cannon being fired from across the water and gossiping until late. Aspiring musicians also spend time here and are known to lead sing-alongs with the crowds. If you’re in this area earlier in the day, you can also check out the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, an original 16thcentury Spanish fort.