20th arrondissement

LE GRAND BAIN

Small plates, natural wine and in an up-and-coming location: on paper, Le Grand Bain fits all the Paris dining trends, but it can’t be boxed in. Chef Emily Chia, once of St John in London, devises a changing menu, but the Marseilles panisse (chickpea fries) with curried mayonnaise — a witty take on chips and curry sauce — and gougères au lardo di Colonnata (salty, fatty choux pastry) are notable mainstays. From around €40 (£34) per person, including wine. legrandbainparis.com

PALOMA

Olivia Brunet and Marie-Anna Delgado opened this spot in January 2021. Olivia, a cabinetmaker, furnished their venue with vintage pieces, while Maria-Anna, former head chef at Le Dindon en Laisse, is concocting seasonal daily menus that elegantly and inventively feature everything from trout to stuffed cabbage and pig’s trotters. There are also tasty ‘grocery’ products, such as pies and duck confit, to takeaway. From around €30 (£25) per person, including wine. 93 Rue Julien Lacroix

CHANTEFABLE

With its huge mirrors, art deco touches and Toulouse-Lautrec reproductions, Chantefable has a turn-of-the-century vibe. This typical Parisian brasserie is all about generous plates of steak tartare, entrecôte and andouillette sausage, as well as decadent seafood platters and classic duck confit. Leave room for the darkchocolate-dunked profiteroles, or the vanilla-infused crème brûlée. From around €50 (£42) per person, including wine. chantefable.fr