National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Peak performanc­e

Hailing from the Atlas Mountains, Hafida Hdoubane became one of Morocco’s first female mountain guides in 1994 and has been leading hiking groups in the country ever since

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I’VE BEEN AN OFFICIAL GUIDE AND TOUR LEADER FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS. At the time, most of the guides working in the Atlas Mountains were European, and Moroccan women were expected to stay at home and focus on raising a family. But I decided to tread a different path.

I GREW UP IN A FAMILY OF STRONG WOMEN.

I was the eldest of five sisters and my dad didn’t hide his disappoint­ment at not having a son. That made us tough. We had to prove ourselves. When I told my mother I wanted to work in the mountains, she said, “What about the wild animals? The lions?” Needless to say, we have no lions in Morocco, but I think it was just her way of saying how worried she was.

I THINK I HAVE THE BEST JOB IN THE WORLD, BUT I’VE HAD TO MAKE SACRIFICES ALONG THE WAY. Balancing my job with a marriage and motherhood hasn’t been easy. Partly because of these commitment­s, Morocco still has very few female mountain guides. I have just one son, and sadly my marriage didn’t last.

THERE ARE DIFFERENCE­S BETWEEN MALE AND FEMALE GUIDES. I’m often seen as a mother or sister figure, particular­ly by women who are apprehensi­ve about certain aspects of travelling here. My job is to be safetycons­cious, reassuring and empowering. I’m also a bridge between worlds; I’ve spent a lot of time in Europe, so I understand both sides. We may live different lives, but in many ways, our needs are exactly the same.

I’VE LED MANY TRIPS IN THE MOROCCAN SAHARA, BUT I’M HAPPIEST IN THE MOUNTAINS. I’ve climbed Morocco’s highest peaks more times than I can count. There’s something about hiking through those canyons that makes me feel totally free.

TOURISM CAN BE A FORCE FOR GOOD IN A POST-PANDEMIC MOROCCO. Tourists have a lot to offer, and not just financiall­y. They can demonstrat­e the value of education and a sense of adventure. In return, rural Moroccans can show tourists that wide open spaces and close-knit families are important and valuable, too. tawadatrek­king.net

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