A journey from west to east

On the northern coast of Japan’s Kansai region, natural drama and a rich culture combine to spectacular effect. From the windswept coastline and tiny fishing villages to ancient temples that teeter on the sides of mountains, a trip through Kansai will stir the soul. Words & photographs: Ben Weller

The northern coast of Kansai sketches a rocky line along the Sea of Japan. Rich in natural and historical treasures, the fishermen, farmers and craftspeople here have a deep reverence for the province they call home, preserving age-old traditions while acting as stewards of the sea, fields and forests. This sevenday odyssey through Kansai starts in the San’in Kaigan UNESCO Global Geopark, before pushing eastward along the coast, and plunging south along the shores of Lake Biwa. Expect towering dunes, white sand beaches, centuries-old temples, and fishing villages that live according to the rhythm of the sea. Whether reading sutras with monks, venturing out on a commercial fishing vessel, or strolling the willowlined streets of a hot springs town, every step of this journey offers the potential to connect with the land, its history and, above all, its people.

DAY ONE

Tottori

Begin your journey in Tottori, in Kansai’s northwest, with its other-worldly sand dunes, sea cliffs and hidden beaches. The dunes are jaw-dropping, though the climb up is steep. To get down, however, there’s the option to sandboard, paraglide or even climb aboard a camel. Next, visit the San’in Kaigan Geopark Museum of the Earth and Sea, before exploring the coastline with Uradome Coast Island Cruises. These hardy vessels navigate the rocky islets dotting the shore, offering the chance to see the area’s fascinating geology. End the day at the nearby Sand Museum, displaying exquisitely carved sculptures from the world’s top sand artists.

The Tottori Sand Dunes cover a vast area, rising skywards for an incredible 150ft; a veritable sand mountain on Kansai’s western coast. The shoreline is dominated with rocky outcrops, which play host to impressive colonies of cormorants, and are surrounded by the crystalline waters of the Sea of Japan.

DAY TWO

Hyogo

Next, head east into Hyogo Prefecture and deep into the San’in Kaigan Geopark, a UNESCO-recognised site, where evidence of the formation of the Sea of Japan can be witnessed. The Hyogo Park of the Oriental White Stork is also well worth visiting. This majestic bird species was decimated by pesticides used in rice agriculture but locals rallied, bringing in safe farming methods and reintroducing storks to the wild. Even the schools here serve organic rice in children’s lunches. Spend the night in Kinosaki Onsen, a hot spring town where people bathe so often they stroll the streets in traditional yukata robes. While there, enjoy a delicious, seasonal meal at Sanpou Nishimuraya Honten. The restaurant’s modern counter seating encircles a traditional irori (a hearth over which stews are cooked for several hours, making the meat incredibly tender). Comfy seats in the upstairs salon overlook the dining area, making it a great place to relax after your meal.

Genbudo Caves were formed over 1.6 million years ago, after magma from a volcanic eruption cooled, contracted, and cracked; the passage of time starkly visible in the layers of rock that lie beside one another like the pages of a book. These otherworldly rock formations were designated as a national natural monument in 1931, recognised for their unique appearance and composition.

A willow-lined river runs through Kinosaki Onsen, a resort town known for its warm hospitality and even warmer waters. Traditional, wood-fronted shops sell fine art and local crafts, while a ropeway takes travellers to the town’s temple, Osenji; it’s a local custom to pray for permission to enter the hot springs.

DAYS THREE & FOUR Kyoto

Onwards to the white sands of Kotohikihama Beach, in northern Kyoto, which stretches for more than a mile. The quartz content in the sand is so high it makes a singing sound when you walk on it, and efforts to keep the coast clean are extensive and wideranging. Learn about how residents protect their home at the Kotohikihama Singing Sand Museum, before spending the rest of the day at the beach. Then dive even deeper into local life at Ine, a little fishing town on the Kyotango Peninsula. People here live in

funaya (wooden boathouses that sit right on the water) and guesthouses are the best way to experience fishery, immersing yourself in the area. Take a boat taxi tour of the bay, eat the day’s catch, and fall asleep to the sound of the waves lapping against your window.

DAYS FIVE & SIX Fukui

In Fukui it’s time to slow down, soaking up the history and beauty of this mountainous coastal region. Seafood lovers will want to stay at a fisherman’s inn in Wakasa, and head out on an early morning set net fishing expedition. This is also the home of Eiheiji, one of the most revered monasteries in Soto Zen Buddhism, a practice that has profoundly influenced Japanese art, culture and philosophy. After spending some time here, visit Echizen, where you can work side by side with local craftspeople making your own knives, washi paper and lacquerware.

Founded in 1244 by Zen Master

Eihei Dōgen, Eiheiji is a practising monastery where only the most committed students of the Soto

Zen school of Buddhism live and train. In Soto Zen, enlightenment is found in the practice of daily life as Buddha, such as eating, sitting and sleeping. At Eiheiji, generations of monks have diligently carried on the teachings of Dōgen, maintaining a tradition central to Japanese culture. There’s gravity in a pilgrimage to this mountain temple, intensified by the enormity of the place. The massive gates, long corridors, and the ancient trees surrounding the temple walls are a reminder of Dōgen’s lasting presence. Hushed voices, the shuffling of slippered feet, the swish of a monk’s robe—the quietude amplifies the weight of this endeavour. For all visitors, the magnitude of Eiheji is a humbling, equalising force.

DAY SEVEN Shiga

On the final day of your journey, head south along the shores of Lake Biwa, Japan’s biggest lake, and undoubtedly one of its most beautiful. At the southern tip, close to the city of Kyoto, lies the temple complex of Enryakuji. This is the headquarters of a Buddhist sect called Tendai, founded in 788. The Japanese warlord Oda Nobunaga, threatened by Tendai’s influence and its army of fierce warrior monks, burned the complex to the ground in 1571, but it was later rebuilt and remains one of the most important religious sites in Japan. Pause here, and spend some time reflecting at the temple, before enjoying a meal at Minemichi, a roadside diner with spectacular views across the still waters of Lake Biwa.

Kikue Ashihara is 79 years old and lives in a funaya in the town of Ine. Like most residents, she grew up on the water, and knows every mood and swell of the ocean. She makes her living from the sea, which is rich in fish such as yellowtail tuna, blowfish and crab.

At Kawamura, a fisherman’s inn in Wakasa, the day’s catch — a rainbowcoloured array of sashimi — is served up every evening. Most accommodation in the town is run by fishermen, so the freshest seafood is available at excellent prices. Near Wakasa Bay, the Mikata Goko are a cluster of five lakes, all with water so clear they mirror the sky. A leisurely cycling tour along their shores is a great way to see the area, as is the chair lift to the Rainbow Line Summit Park, where dazzling panoramic views stretch out across the water.

Sunlight filtering through the towering cedars in the late afternoon is beautiful to behold. Next door, Hakujukan is a modern Zen-inspired inn operated by the temple, where guests can dine on shojin ryori, vegetarian Buddhist cuisine prepared by temple-supervised chefs, or sample some of Fukui’s finest beef and seafood. In the morning, accompanied by the inn’s zen concierge, visitors can join the monks for a morning service, adding their voice to over a hundred others chanting sutras in the cavernous and dimly lit Dharma Hall. Sutra readings are followed by a guided tour of the temple. Eihiji is a place to quiet the mind, and a reminder to appreciate the simple things.

Takumi Ikeda is a knifemaker, inspired to learn the skill from his uncle, who also works at Takefu knife village. “Japan has a great history of knife-making,” he says. “I want people from abroad to know more about our knives, and Japanese people to learn about the traditions of our land.” Ikeda feels a deep connection with the mountains, sea and rivers that surround the village in this wild, wonderful part of Japan.

The craftsmen at Takefu knife village are known across Japan for their diligence and skill. This co-operative project brings artisans together to work under one roof, reducing costs and ensuring the tradition of handmade Echizen knives continues to flourish. Visitors can watch them at work, buy some of Japan’s finest knives, and even try their own hand at knife-making in the onsite workshop.

Monks like Eishuu Tsukuma live and study at Enryakuji, learning the ways of Tendai Buddhism which blends together Indian and Chinese philosophical and religious ideas. That everything is interconnected is at the heart of Tendai, and as such, nature plays a crucial role in the lives of monks at Enryakuji. “We’re surrounded by the life of the mountain,” Eishuu says. “In Japan, before we eat, we say, ‘ itadakimasu’, meaning we’re taking from nature. When we’ve finished, we say, ‘ gochisousama’, thanking nature for everything it gives to us. For hundreds of years, monks have trained in the mountains, and nature is a huge part of that training.”