DAY TWO ISLANDS & EARLS

Morning

More than 30 islands lie off Northumberland’s coast. Best known are the Farnes, but Coquet Island, at the southern tip of the AONB, is closer to the mainland and quieter in peak season. Adventure Northumberland offers guided kayak trips around Coquet’s remote, wind-swept shores where you can spot seals in their hundreds. Largely uninhabited, the island is a crucial site for seabirds, too; 40,000 jostle for nesting space in summer, so sightings of puffins and roseate terns are guaranteed. Back on dry land, peruse Amble harbour’s pop-up craft and snack stalls, before lunch at The Fish Shack. Since chef duo Dave Myers and Si King of the Hairy Bikers visited in 2020, booking ahead is essential.

Afternoon

Earl Grey is sipped the world over, but few know it was invented at Howick Hall. Meander up the coast to visit the magnificent Georgian manor where, in 1830, Earl Charles Grey added bergamot to his tea leaves, offsetting the lime from water in Howick’s well and creating the blend we know today. Walk the hall’s wonderful gardens, spanning 65 acres, before sitting down to a good old-fashioned cream tea. Alternatively, adrenaline junkies can head 20 minutes back to the sea, where Adventure Northumberland runs coasteering expeditions. A catch-all term for slithering, sliding and jumping off rocks, it’s a daredevil way to explore this dramatic stretch of shoreline, full of hidden coves and rocky outcrops.

Evening

In the heart of Alnmouth, a pocketsized village with a couple of pubs, a delicatessen and a gift shop selling local pottery, don’t miss The Whittling House. Whether you’re staying at the boutique hotel or not, dinner here is a must. Try plump, tender scallops surrounded by an indulgent amount of garlic butter, and just-caught lobster, grilled to perfection with a truffle and parmesan crumb. Leave space for the lemon curd and elderflower cheesecake. Afterwards, head next door to The Red Lion Inn. Nightlife on the coast is fairly non-existent — you won’t find any beach parties in the AONB —but the pubs are good fun. Order a beer from the Hadrian Border Brewery; you’re not far from the ancient Roman barricade, after all.