National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Eyre Peninsula
At this restaurant at Peter Teakle Wines — a winery outside Port Lincoln — executive chef Mark Jensen sources local produce and brings it to life with a twist. Think orange blossom lamingtons with stone fruits and sorbet, kangaroo tataki (lightly seared slices of meat) with green mustard and kimchi, and Coffin Bay oysters paired with coastal succulents. The menu is a la carte, or you can choose the five-course tasting menu from A$99 (£56), with paired wines for an additional A$46 (£26). peterteaklewines.com
SARIN’S RESTAURANT
Housed inside the Port Lincoln Hotel, Sarin’s menu of pub classics is headlined by seafood-inspired dishes that take their cues from Indian and European cuisine. The kingfish cured with blood orange delivers a zesty punch, while the tuna steak will have you questioning your loyalty to the bovine variety. Grab a table in the sunny room at the back of the restaurant, or sit on the outdoor deck for sweeping views of the bay. Mains from
A$36 (£20), seafood platters from A$140 (£80), both without wine. portlincolnhotel.com.au
DEL GIORNO’S CAFÉ RESTAURANT
Co-owner and chef Kris Bunder has crafted a menu that celebrates everything the region has to offer, from seafood and wine to fudge and free-range eggs. A charcoal oven imported from Spain imparts a smoky flavour to the tuna steak and kingfish. Cooking masterclasses are also available on request. Mains from A$24 (£14), without wine. delgiornos.com.au
ensure they’re not operating outside their designated zones, and some are fitted with surveillance cameras to monitor onboard activity. Today, stocks of southern bluefin tuna stock are classified by the Australian government as ‘sustainable’. With the local tuna population slowly growing — by around 5% each year — the fishing industry is hopeful quotas will increase in the coming years.
It’s not the only reason to be optimistic. At winery-cum-restaurant Boston Bay
Wines, co-owner and head chef Tony Ford joins me in the dining room overlooking the vines and lapis-blue bay shimmering beyond. “We harvested the grapes just last week. It’s been a good picking season, thanks to heavy rains,” he tells me. I also learn that Tony is something of a local prankster, too, by the giant model tuna tail sticking out of a mound of soil — a light-heartened nod to the area’s sustainable tuna farming.
This corner of the peninsula has long been associated with winegrowing. When French explorers first scouted this coastline in the 17th century (and mapped almost the entirety of Australia’s coastline), they noted in their journals that the peninsula’s Mediterranean climate would make the region ideal for wine production. Tony’s parents no doubt agreed, which is why his family has been growing grapes on this hillside for the past 40 years. “We’re so close to the water’s edge, which has really helped give us an advantage when it comes to growing,” Tony says. “There’s no frost or mildew here, and the salty coastal air dries up any grapes that burst, reducing the chance of infections setting into the vine.”
Winemaking may be the family business, but Tony’s true passion is cooking. The menu at Boston Bay Wines is seasonal, and during my visit Tony serves up a textural playground on a plate. A crunchy, fried wonton cone envelops a creamy prawn and avocado filling. Calamari tubes are smattered with smashed popcorn and baby tomatoes that pop in the mouth. Tying it all together is a top selection of Sauvignon Blancs and Rieslings.
True to form, Tony continues wisecracking as he deftly slices a tuna steak into sashimi and slides the plate onto the table. The raw tuna dissolves on the tongue, chased by the zing of spicy ginger. A salty breeze comes through the window and I gaze outside. A boat scuttles out to sea: likely a new generation of sustainable tuna cowboys, out for another day on the ranch.
HOW TO DO IT
Port Lincoln Hotel has double rooms from A$154 (£99). portlincolnhotel.com.au
Seafood foraging experiences with Australian Coastal Safaris from A$318 (£180) per person. australiancoastalsafaris.com.au
Oyster Farm Tours from A$51 (£29) per person. oysterfarmtours.com.au