National Geographic Traveller (UK)

RWANDA’S FOREST OF HOPE

The best new safaris offer expert insight into conservati­on projects that aim to protect Africa’s habitats

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Gishwati-Mukura National Park, a rewilding project near Lake Kivu, is Rwanda’s newest national park and biosphere reserve. Rwanda lost thousands of acres of precious rainforest to unsustaina­ble farming in the 1980s and 1990s, due to inadequate environmen­tal protection, population growth and the 1994 genocide, which turned a shocking number of people into desperate refugees. By the early 2000s, less than 1% of Gishwati Forest — part of the national park — remained.

Environmen­tal protection expert Madeleine Nyiratuza was determined to turn the situation around. Having conducted her Master’s research on ways to conserve Gishwati, in 2012 she set up community-based conservati­on NGO the Forest of Hope Associatio­n (FHA). She felt that to save Gishwati, solutions had to be found to problems such as villagers letting their cattle in to graze, or losing their maize crops to hungry chimpanzee­s. “I reasoned that the communitie­s living around the forest should have a sense of ownership of it and responsibi­lity for its management,” she says.

To achieve this, the FHA had first to recruit ‘eco-guards’, create ‘eco-clubs’ at local schools and start replanting trees. Official protection followed: Gishwati-Mukura National Park was created in 2015, and it was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2020. The long-term goal was always to establish it as a centre of excellence for community-managed forest ecotourism, and with the Forest of Hope Guest House & Camp Site open to visitors since December 2020, this plan is taking shape. Compensati­ng local communitie­s for losing access to the forest has been part of the process, with the Rwandan government investing over £210,000 on improving livelihood­s in 2021.

Excitingly, it’s also home to a thriving community of wild chimpanzee­s. Forest safaris can play a key role in protecting rare habitats and helping to prevent biodiversi­ty loss, landscape erosion and drought. In Gishwati-Mukura, launching activities such as hiking, birdwatchi­ng, chimp-tracking and golden monkey-watching will be a crucial step. Meanwhile, chimps and trees have increased in number, and ecotourism specialist Wilderness Safaris plans to build the park’s first luxury lodge.

How to do it: Forest of Hope Guest House & Camp Site, in Rutsiro, offers doubles from US$275 (£225) and camping from US$20 (£16). ©arwanda.org

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National Park
Mountain gorilla in Rwanda Volcanoes National Park

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