INSIDER TIPS

In summer, the Viennese head to Sunken City, a cluster of beach bars on Danube Island. donauinsel.at

Every day at sunset, the energy company Verbund sets off

Yellow Fog, a fluorescent smoke installation by artist Olafur Eliasson, from a grate outside its Am Hof square HQ. verbund.com

Jazz lover? Gather with students from Vienna’s music university, MUK, at First Floor, which has a massive aquarium, and Jazzland beneath Vienna’s oldest church. firstfloorbar.at jazzland.at

Austrian venues still prefer paper tender to plastic. Bring cash to clubs, markets and cafes so you don’t get caught out.