National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Leeuwarden
With centuries of intriguing history, cosy market squares and cafe-lined canals, every corner of Leeuwarden in the Netherlands rewards a visit
WHERE IS LEEUWARDEN?
Situated in the north of the Netherlands, just two hours from Amsterdam by train, Leeuwarden is the capital of the Friesland province and the country’s best-kept secret.
WHAT’S IT KNOWN FOR?
Its charming historic centre, packed with cobbled streets and threaded with canals. Awarded European Capital of Culture in 2018, Leeuwarden retains a strong identity, including its own language and heritage. It’s also the birthplace of exotic dancer Mata Hari and graphic artist M.C Escher, as well as the historic home of the Nassau family — ancestors of the current Dutch king.
WHO SHOULD VISIT?
Anyone who loves history and culture. It’s a perfect city for weekend strolling, with sumptuous gastronomy and excellent bars.
WHAT ARE SOME OF LEEUWARDEN’S LOCAL DRAWS?
Its superb variety of museums and inventive cultural projects, including the Fries Museum, which explores the region’s 11 cities and fascinating relationship with water, and the Ceramic Museum Princessehof, which showcases an unparalleled selection of Delftware and is housed in a former palace.
Blokhuispoort, a 19th-century prisonturned-cultural centre — containing a plethora of eateries, a library and even a hostel — is another unique experience. Here, visitors can peruse dozens of artisan boutiques and artists’ workshops which occupy the old cells.
WHEN’S THE BEST TIME TO VISIT?
Leeuwarden’s first Triennial, the Arcadia, is taking place from May to August in 2022, promising a hundred days of culture.