National Geographic Traveller (UK)

DAY ONE DUNES & DAIRY

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Morning

Sylt’s shape — three long, slender peninsulas — means planning ahead is vital. Start your day in the village of List, in the far north of the island. From here, there are coastal walks out to the northernmo­st point of Germany, the Elbow — a hook of land dotted with lighthouse­s that offers views across to Denmark, two miles away. If you’re in the mood for a decadent treat, then make a beeline for the Sylter Eismanufak­tur ice cream parlour (the salted caramel is memorable). All the milk used to make the ice cream comes from Sylt herds — impressive, considerin­g how little pastoral land there is. Afterwards, soak up the atmosphere around List’s ferry port, home to bars, boutiques, restaurant­s and fairground-style attraction­s. sylter-eismanufak­tur.de

Afternoon

Don’t leave List without having lunch at Gosch — a fish restaurant that’s now a nationwide chain. Its delectable selection includes Sylt’s beloved oysters. Afterwards, if you haven’t hired a bike, hop on a bus and head to Kampen, just south of List. While this well-heeled resort is primarily a place for people-watching and fine dining, it’s worth heading beyond Hotel Rungholt to Hundstrand Rotes Kliff beach. It costs €3.50 (£3) to access — a fee that helps to fund erosion management. Walk the coastal trail along the gorgeous Red Cliffs, with the golden beach below, and you’ll see why this landscape is worth protecting. If you have the energy, continue walking four miles south to Westerland. gosch.de hotel-rungholt.com

Evening

Once in Westerland — Sylt’s largest town — fill your boots at one of the many restaurant­s. Try seafood specialist Restaurant Fisch Hüs Sylt, perhaps, or relaxed, fine dining option Foodporn — for the likes of pumpkin risotto or veal ragu open ravioli. Before you choose, it’s worth booking a strandkorb and settling in to watch the sun set (the island has thousands of these colourful wicker chairs, with most found in this area) and savour what the locals call the ‘Champagne air’. Look west, and there’s nothing but North Sea until the northeast coast of England; behind you, Sylt’s sand dunes. If the weather’s a little too bracing, enjoy the views from Hotel Miramar, an elegant property that’s been welcoming guests since 1903. foodporn-sylt.de hotel-miramar.de

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