National Geographic Traveller (UK)
THREE TO TRY NORTH FRISIAN ISLANDS
Sylt’s smaller neighbours make a worthwhile stop for a quieter, gentler pace of life. There are no bridges or ferries between Sylt and the other islands, so catch one of the ferries from the mainland
Föhr
The flattest and most agricultural of the North Frisian Islands is becoming increasingly popular with travellers, especially those who feel Sylt’s Frisian personality has been somewhat diluted by its popularity with visitors. This isle — far quieter than Sylt — has plenty of cycling paths as well as walks along the coastal dykes. The town of Wyk auf Föhr is the closest thing it has to a resort — it’s where you’ll find most of the restaurants and hotels, as well as a classic promenade with bandstand. For cakes and coffee, the gloriously kitschy Stellys Hüüs in the village of Oldsum has won many admirers over the years. The wetlands and abundance of fields make Föhr a popular spot for birdwatching in early summer, too.
Amrum
Not so long ago, it was easily possible to walk between Föhr and Amrum at low tide, but rising sea levels mean it’s much wiser to take a ferry instead. Once you’ve got there, the best way to travel the island is by bike, dozens of which are available to hire by the dock. Locals say the island is how Sylt was 30 years ago, all sleepy villages and sensational beaches. The main stretch of sand — over six miles long and almost two miles wide in places — is a popular destination for day-trippers from Föhr and Sylt. Head further north, and Amrum remains decidedly sleepy, with quaint villages like Norddorf offering a feeling of escapism — and no shortage of pretty, thatched-roof buildings, of course.
Pellworm
Once part of a larger island called Strand, Pellworn became an island in its own right after a flood in the 17th century. Today, it’s the least touristy of the major islands in this corner of Germany, but still has attractions well worth seeking out. The Old Church has been in ruins for over 300 years and has a striking silhouette, while the historic red-and-white lighthouse makes for a similarly satisfying photograph. If you’re travelling in summer, don’t be surprised to see couples enjoying maritimethemed weddings here. Despite its comparative lack of visitors, Pellworm has some outstanding cafes, too — Warft, Anticus and Strandcafe all make a welcome pitstop for their excellent cakes and strong coffee.
MORE INFO
Sylt Tourism. sylt.de
GETTING THERE
Westerland is accessed by a train that carries both passengers and cars. The line goes all the way to Hamburg (journey time around three hours), which is served by rail and air from several UK destinations.