DAY TWO ART & CANALS

Morning

A highlight of Utrecht’s art scene is the work of local designer and architect Gerrit Rietveld, a luminary of 20th-century art movement De Stijl (neoplasticism). The world’s largest collection of his work is on display at the Centraal Museum in the old town, but a 15-minute bike ride east will take art-lovers to Rietveld Schröder House. The first private home he designed, it remains his magnum opus — an elemental vision of straight lines, geometric shapes and primary colours, where space is optimised by visual illusions and sliding walls. After the tour, cycle on to Griftpark, a green oasis just outside the city centre, and refuel with a Mediterranean-inspired brunch at nearby Karibu cafe. centraalmuseum.nl karibueat.nl

Afternoon

For all the charm of Utrecht’s canalside promenades, it’s below street level that you’ll find its defining feature: a system of cellars carved into water-level quays. These spaces now serve as workshops, businesses and restaurants — and are best discovered from the water. From spring to autumn, the canals host a parade of standup paddleboards and kayaks, but to learn more about these storied waterways, opt for a private boat tour with Sloepdelen. After being concreted over in the 70s, the Catherinesingle section of the Stadsbuitengracht canal

— which wraps around the city centre — was re-filled with water in 2020. Today, it’s possible to cruise along the entire four-mile loop for the first time in four decades. sloepdelen.nl

Evening

Enjoy small bites at Bunk Hotel Utrecht, a hotel housed inside a deconsecrated church in the medieval centre. The restaurant is modern and its vibe convivial, but reminding guests of the building’s previous life is a 19th-century organ, which still entertains diners during special evening concerts. After dinner, search the streets for Utrecht Lumen, a series of light installations in and around the centre. Set up as part of the city’s bid to become the 2018 European Capital of Culture, it lived on as a lure for day-trippers. From a glowing halo above the modest St Willibrord’s Church to pulsating lights inside Paushuize palace, it’s further proof of the city’s knack for reinvention. bunkhotels.com

Repurposed wharfs lining Oudegracht canal