National Geographic Traveller (UK)
THREE TO TRY CYCLING TOURS
In 2019, Utrecht opened the world’s largest bicycle park, a three-level garage with over 12,500 slots. It’s part of one of Europe’s best cycling infrastructure — testament to the city’s love for two-wheeled adventures
History on a grand scale
It takes around an hour to cycle from Utrecht to De Haar Castle, the largest in the Netherlands and arguably the most extravagant. It was built in the 19th century with all the medieval flair of the mansion it replaced, which burned down in 1482. Today, De Haar is an arresting sight: a blaze of spires, turrets and drawbridges, all reflected in a large moat and surrounded by a 55-acre park. Book a guided tour to be let in on the secrets of its most notable guests; it was once the holiday retreat of the aristocratic Van Zuylen family, and it has also hosted a glamorous roll call of A-listers over the years, from fashion designer Coco Chanel to opera singer Maria Callas and actors Gregory Peck and Roger Moore. kasteeldehaar.nl
Follow the De Stijl trail
Venture beyond the city for more attractions centred on the De
Stijl art movement. From Utrecht, follow the 12-mile Mondrian Meets Rietveld cycling trail to Amersfoort, the picturesque heart of the Utrecht province and where painter Piet Mondrian was born in 1872. Created to mark the centennial of De Stijl in 2017, the route is part open-air gallery, part treasure hunt, and is signposted with 10 sculptures by artist Boris Tellegen — all riffing on Mondrian’s trademark abstract forms and monochromatic blocks. This year marks the 150th anniversary of his birth — a fitting time to visit The Mondriaan House; set in his childhood home, the museum has a full-scale replica of his Parisian studio plus exhibits delving into his life. mondriaanhuis.nl
Head north
The local tourist office organises private cycling tours of the city, which take in its history, architecture and lesser-known attractions. These itineraries can be tailored to specific interests, but if you don’t have special requests, let your guide take you to the northern parts of the city centre. Residential and peaceful, these areas are often overlooked in favour of the livelier south, but can provide a welcome respite from the weekend buzz. Cycle along the Nieuwegracht canal, admire the beautiful houses — among the most expensive in the city — and explore the winding alleys, keeping an eye out for their inner courtyards. One of Utrecht’s quaintest sights, these green corners open their gates to the public in the daytime.