INSIDER TIPS

Looking for an immersive introduction to the city? Alternative Athens offers themed tours, run by locals, that tick off less-expected highlights, such as home-cooked food, local neighbourhood nightlife, hidden street art, LGBTQ+ culture and even a Greek mythology and storytelling walk. alternativeathens.com

Coffee culture in Athens blends furious games of backgammon, played by weather-beaten men arguing about politics, and young Athenian hipsters sipping iced frappes and brews from bronze briki pots. Join them for debate beneath the draped vines at Kafeneion 111 on Ermou street. instagram.com/kafeneion111

On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays throughout May, the Athens Street Food Festival gets underway with music, menus and street parties at the Old Depot (a former tram terminal) in the city centre. Outside, look for the murals by leading Greek street artist INO. athensstreetfoodfestival.gr