THERMAL BATHS Centuries of wellness

Sojourn through the country’s spa history via three of its most famous thermal baths

NITRODI

ONE OF THE OLDEST IN EUROPE

Italy has an abundance of hot springs that can be traced back well before the rise of Rome; these steaming pools are heated by geothermic forces deep within the earth. One of the earliest examples are thought to be Nitrodi on the island of Ischia, in the Bay of Naples. The Greeks were the first to identify these thermal waters’ curative properties, and 3,000 years on, they remain a favourite wellness hub. Other places to soak across the island include Sorgeto Bay, where hot water gushes directly into the sea. After descending some 200 steps to shore, bathers are rewarded with rocky pools of varying sizes and temperatures, all set within a pretty cove.

BAGNO VIGNONI ROMAN-TIME WELLNESS

No discussion about spa culture in the country is complete without mentioning the Romans, who expanded the use of thermal baths as a communal activity. Almost every Roman city had a bathhouse, some large enough to welcome several thousand bathers, who’d come together, relax and socialise. When the empire collapsed, they gradually fell into disrepair, and not a single one is still in use today. But travellers can still do as the Romans did by heading a couple of hours north to the Tuscan hot springs in Bagno Vignoni. Located along the Via Francigena pilgrim route, this tiny hamlet became a charming stop-off for weary travellers — as well as a resort for moneyed Italians. They would swim in the pool that fills the main Renaissance-era piazza, which remains unique and unchanged to this day. Sadly, it’s no longer suitable for swimming, but the warm waters can be enjoyed at nearby Parco Dei Mulini (Park of the Mills).

MONTECATINI TERME THE GREAT MODERN SPA TOWN

In the late 1700s, public bathing came back into vogue, but more for medicinal purposes. The town leading the revival was Montecatini Terme in the heart of northern Tuscany; thanks to the vision and patronage of Grand Duke Leopold, it built a number of spas around its thermal springs. The largest and most beautiful was Terme Tettuccio, which is still in use today and where treatments are based on hydroponic therapy (water drinking). Visitors can taste the famous waters of Montecatini, all said to do wonders for the liver and digestive system. Guided tours are also offered of the grounds, where marble pavilions sit among manicured gardens. Inside, walls are adorned with splendid murals by Galileo Chini, the father of Italian art nouveau. In fact, it’s the combination of spas, art and architecture that earned Montecatini a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021 as one of the Great Spa Towns of Europe.