Slow touring Le Marche

With its cliff-hugging hill towns and valleys unfurling from the Apennines to the Adriatic coast, Le Marche is a region locals like to whisper about. Words: Kerry Walker

MONTEDINOVE

Nestled between the Sibillini Mountains and minutes from the Adriatic Sea, Montedinove is one of many medieval villages tucked away in Le Marche’s mountainous heart. This is a place pulsing with history, with ruined fortifications, monuments and museums. Outside of town, you can even visit the shrine of St Thomas Becket, built in the seventeenth century and dedicated to the English saint. The town’s pride and joy, however, is the fragrant mela rosa, an ancient variety of apple that’s been successfully replanted in 20 acres of surrounding orchards.

One farm that cultivates these apples is the sustainably minded I Tuzi. Run by nature-loving brothers Cristiano and Gianluca, the farm has revived age-old family methods of growing forgotten varieties of fruits, vegetables, herbs and cereals, including garlic, artichokes, peppers and onions.

OFFAGNA & MONTAPPONE

Clinging to a great crag and topped by a chunky 15th-century fortress, Offagna is visible for miles around. Climb to the top of its tower for panoramic views over forest-plumed hills and fields, before taking a deep dive into local history at the castle museum. In the final week of July, court jesters, minstrels, dames and knights wander the streets during the riotous, week-long medieval festival.

Another Le Marche village, snuggling up close to Monti Sibillini National Park, is Montappone, which has a unique claim to fame as Italy’s hat capital. Straw hats have been hand-sewn here since the 1300s, and panamas, bonnets and broad-rimmed hats are still made the traditional way today. You can see an incredible display of them at the Museo del Cappello, located in the heart of the town.

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