National Geographic Traveller (UK)
DAY 2 TAKE TO THE SKIES
Morning
Hotel transfers or public buses drop skiers out at Entrèves for the ride of a lifetime on Skyway. Board one of the sleek, shiny spaceship-like aerial trams and there will be no need to jostle for viewing position. Each vessel regularly rotates completely so all passengers enjoy maximum alpine drama during the 7,100ft climb. Explore the Hangar 2,173 museum at the mid station, dedicated to the extraordinary engineering feats of cable-car systems. The top station terrace at Punta Helbronner gives a reachout-and-touch view of Monte Bianco. Then ride back down: only extreme off-piste descents start from here on the Italian side. Check out the Valleé Blanche itinerary to Chamonix, in France, as an easier alternative (see below).
Afternoon
Brave Skyway’s Sky Vertigo walk or take in the exhibition of mountain crystals and perhaps a glass of Prosecco at Bistrot Panoramic.
From Skyway base, grab what some consider the best pizza in Courmayeur at Pizzeria du Tunnel or head directly back to the slopes, above Zerotta, via the Val Veny cable-car to Pré de Pascale. Or burn the carbs at Val Ferret on 12 miles of cross-country ski trails through forests of larch, Scots pine and silver fir, the peaks of Mont Dolent, Dente del Gigante and Grandes Jorasses peering over the treelined foothills below. Rehydrate at Hotel Lavachey, which has welcomed guests since 1898. Rental equipment, lessons and trail maps are available at Courmayeur Ski & Snowboard School.
Evening
Kick off aprés at La Bouche, where mixologist Valentina conjures cocktails from mountain herbs, flowers and fruits alongside small bites. The covered outdoor space is where DJs or bands create chilled mood music. The half-mile pedestrianised Via Roma starts just north with Bar Roma and its huge aperitivi table brimming with charcuterie, pizza slices, cheeses, and salads included in the price of your drink. Sup a few beers and you can eat substantially enough to constitute dinner. A younger crowd enjoys the street’s lively American Bar, while intimate Le Privé is the place for negronis a deux. Feast on Mocetta sausage and potato salad at nearby restaurant Cadran Solaire, run by the Garin family, founders of Auberge de la Maison.