Wild encounters

Local expert Jason Radix is a seasoned guide and conservationist. He talks about his homeland of Trinidad

AFTER YEARS OF GUIDING, DO YOU EVER DISCOVER WILDLIFE THAT STILL SURPRISES YOU?

Even after decades of guiding, including leading Sir David Attenborough and Bill Oddie, I’m still regularly surprised by unusual sightings of uncommon, migrant and rare species, as well as odd and undocumented animal behaviours. Every tour is different, and an opportunity to see something new. Recently, I saw a pair of great black hawks perform their aerial courtship. Such experiences, although infrequent, are the highlights of my profession. And, after all these years, I’m still convinced that I have the best job in the world.

IS THERE ANY WILDLIFE WHICH IS TOTALLY NATIVE TO YOUR HOMELAND OF TRINIDAD?

While Trinidad boasts diverse wildlife and is an ecologically unique destination, there are only a few species endemic to it. The island of Trinidad shares its biodiversity with its South American neighbours. But, wildlife encounters are all easily accessible. The species’ habitats are all found in an area under 2,000sq miles.

WHERE WOULD YOU SAY IS YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE ON THE ISLAND? After living and travelling so extensively in Trinidad, the Asa Wright Nature Centre is still my favourite place. It’s where I began my career in the early 1990s and was the birthplace of my passion for nature and conservation. It’s filled with neotropical forest life and is one of the very best conservation facilities in the region. I look forward to its reopening in 2023, so I can once again sit on its famous veranda and wander along its many forest trails.

WHERE ON THE ISLAND SHOULD TRAVELLERS GO FOR THE BEST BIRDSPOTTING OPPORTUNITIES?

It’s a tough competition — Trinidad has the second highest number of bird species by square mile of any country in the world. The Caroni Swamp is famous for its daily flatbottom boat tours through the mangroves. There, we’re able to witness both wading and perching birds, including the island’s national bird, the scarlet ibis. Nariva Swamp, Aripo Savannah, Arena Forest and Waterloo are also excellent sites for spotting tropical birds.

Aerial view of Maracas Beach

Below: Jason Radix

Located in the heart of northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Modena is packed with twisting mountain roads, cobbled towns and delicious backstreet trattorias. With an abundance of fresh tortellini, wild mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, Parmigiano Reggiano and thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar — Modena sings loudly of the seasons and profoundly of the land.

MONTECRETO

Perched above a patchwork of meadows and chestnut forests, Montecreto has medieval roots and classic Italian charm. Walk cobbled, fortified Via Castello and you’ll pass courtyards, balconies, intricately carved doorways and a Dominican convent as you climb up to the Romanesque-style church of San Giovanni Battista. You could spend mellow days here drifting from one piazza and trattoria to the next, but big wilderness also awaits on its doorstep.

Beyond the village, Parco dei Castagni bristles with ancient chestnut trees, while hiking and mountain biking trails dive deep into rugged mountains home to wild horses, marmots and buzzards. In nearby Monte Cimone, a cable car trundles up to its 7,103ft summit to reveal sweeping views, from the Alps to the Adriatic. There’s trekking here in summer and plenty of fresh powder to pound on 30 miles of pistes come winter.

CHESTNUTS AND CHEESE

Montecreto is a slow food feast. The village’s chestnut woods produce a bountiful crop each autumn, climaxing at the Chestnut Festival in October. For a deeper insight into their importance, visit the village metato, an old stone house built specifically to dry freshly harvested chestnuts before they are ground into flour. On the lower level, a smouldering fire is stoked five times a day. This smoke drifts up to the wicker-floored top level, where the chestnuts are left to dry.

Crumbly, nutty and tangy-sweet, the region’s famous Parmigiano-Reggiano is also traditionally made at Caseificio Casello dairy. Raw milk from the cattle that graze these lush pastures is poured into a vat and blended with rennet to form curd, which is then cut, placed in wheel-shaped moulds and soaked in brine. These are arranged on shelves, carefully tended and aged for a minimum of 12 months. caseificiocasello.it