Let the music play

Five of the best ways to discover the legendary music scene in Washington state’s biggest city. Words: Zoey Goto

Seattle is known as a city that very much dances to its own beat musically. Not only has it birthed one of the world’s greatest guitar players in Jimi Hendrix while also encouraging the underground sounds of Nirvana, Soundgarden and Alice In Chains to bubble up into the mainstream. Post-grunge, in an exciting new musical landscape, an increasingly diverse selection of performers are stepping up to the mic. And with its music festivals back in full force, it’s an ideal time to plan a trip to Washington state’s largest and most harmonious metropolis.

1 MAKE SWEET MUSIC AT THE MUSEUM OF POP CULTURE

Seattle is no stranger to boundary-pushing architecture, but the Museum of Pop Culture (MoPOP), a shimmering Frank Gehrydesigned landmark, is almost worth visiting solely to admire its futuristic facade. Ensure you venture over the threshold of this shrine to popular culture, where hands-on galleries dedicated to indie gaming, cult movies, scifi animations and contemporary musicians await. Catch a local band on the big screen at the on-site Sky Church, a concert venue featuring one of the world’s largest LED displays, or unleash your inner rock star at the Sound Lab, thrashing it out with real instruments before a virtual pit of moshing fans. mopop.org

2 GO DANCING IN THE STREET AT A CITY FESTIVAL

In 2023, Seattle will prepare to host some of the most invigorating live music celebrations in the US. In March, find your groove at the Freakout festival, a rhythmic weekender, while the multidisciplinary arts festival Bumbershoot will make a welcome comeback in early September, with a packed schedule showcasing the best of the city’s comedic talents, visual arts, music, dance and theatre. Alternatively, keep things local at the Capitol Hill Block Party in July, where activism and community events take the spotlight alongside six stages of pulsating punk, pop and R&B. the-freakout.com bumbershoot.org capitolhillblockparty.com

3 ADD TO YOUR VINYL COLLECTION AT EASY STREET RECORDS

Seattle may be synonymous with alt-rock, but the city has also given us renowned hip-hop acts, including the Emerald Street Boys and Sir Mix-a-Lot, as well as being the launchpad for The Flavor magazine, the first internationally distributed hiphop publication. Brush up on the city’s rap rhymes at Easy Street Records in West Seattle, a local icon widely viewed as one of the best independent record shops in the US. Browse its extensive hip-hop section, or time your visit wisely to see in-store visiting acts, which have previously included the legendary De La Soul. The low-fi cafe serves burritos and omelettes named after such musical luminaries as James Brown. easystreetonline.com

4 SEE THE LIGHT AT NEUMOS

Artists of the calibre of Adele and Cat Power have performed at this low-key Capitol Hill music venue. The reason is apparently down to the world-class lighting and sound system. Neumos (pronounced ‘New Moe’s’) is a launchpad for touring musicians, where internationally recognised stars jostle for space across three stages with some of Seattle’s finest drag artists and local underground rockers. Pre-show, make sure to grab a drink at The Runaway, a music-centric hangout right next door where DJs serve up hot tunes to accompany plates of fiery fried chicken. neumos.com therunawayseattle.com

5 ROCK OUT IN BELLTOWN

Built on the storied bricks of Seattle’s grunge scene, The Crocodile first swung open its fabled doors in the early 1990s. This iconic live music venue and bar has been swiftly supplying the soundtrack for the hip Belltown district ever since, showcasing everyone from Nirvana and Yoko Ono to Billie Eilish. It has now relocated to a new site, just a few blocks from the original, where you’ll find touring acts, dance parties and comedians entertaining the loyal crowd. An eccentric hotel above the venue offers the city’s most rock’n’roll sleepover, but be warned — earplugs are advised! thecrocodile.com Tour operator Bon Voyage offers a seven-night stay at the four-star Mayflower Park Hotel in Downtown Seattle (B&B), plus direct flights from London with Virgin Atlantic (around 10 hours) and car hire from £2,650 per person. For more information, head to bon-voyage.co.uk

Jazz musician Chuck Mangione performing at Jazz Alley in Belltown Clockwise from left: The skyline of Seattle as seen from Kerry Park; statue of Soundgarden frontman Chris Cornell