National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Something’s cooking
AWARD-WINNING CHEF PATRICK MULVANEY REVEALS HOW THE CALIFORNIAN CAPITAL HAS BECOME A BOOMING CULINARY DESTINATION
What makes the Sacramento food scene so special? We’re surrounded by farms. We live in such a rich agricultural region and the Northern Californian climate means we’re blessed with a 12-month growing season. From tomatoes to sushi rice, the produce grown here is so good it ends up in the best restaurants in New York City, Chicago and Los Angeles. But, obviously, it’s freshest here because we’re right on its doorstep, so, dishes in our restaurants are full of flavour as a result.
You’ve been working as a chef in Sacramento for over 25 years. How has the restaurant scene changed in that time? Dramatically. When I first came here, there were about five local farms producing great ingredients; now there are 50. Plus, the quality has gone up along with the quantity. Local farmers are better educated and better engaged in the process — and we, as chefs, have begun celebrating them on our menus. You know when the tomatoes on a menu have your name on them, then you’re right out front. The farmers enjoy that — and they’ve responded with consistently amazing produce.
How does the food here compare to that of other Californian cities such as Los Angeles and San Francisco? We have a way, way closer relationship with our farmers here. There’s a two-way trust you don’t get anywhere else in California, and that’s reflected in our menus: what they bring through the door each morning is what we end up putting on plates that evening. The food scene in LA is very different; the city is a melting pot of cultures, and that comes through in its restaurant scene, where you get these amazing fusions. It’s very creative, and intriguing to explore.
Farm-to-fork has been a highly successful movement since the turn of the century. Where do you see it 20 years’ time? A new generation of incredibly creative chefs has started coming through. For me, as I get older, it’s time to step back a little and watch. For more than two decades, we’ve worked hard to make Sacramento a better place to live and eat in. I’d argue that we’ve been successful — and I’m excited to see what comes next. visitsacramento.com visitcalifornia.com
INTERVIEW: JONATHAN THOMPSON
Patrick Mulvaney is the co-owner and chef of Mulvaney’s B+L, a New American restaurant in Midtown. He also works with Roots of Change, a California-based think tank promoting a sustainable food supply chain. mulvaneysbl.com rootsofchange.org