22 Underwater museum

Alonissos is a short hop from cosmopolitan Skiathos, but couldn’t be more different: rustic, sparsely populated, forested and tranquil. Queen of its own little uninhabited archipelago, it’s surrounded by the pristine seas of Europe’s largest marine reserve, home to the critically endangered monk seal, as well as Eleanora’s falcons, dolphins and whales. Visit aboard the Stella, from where you may just spot some of the resident wildlife between swims off islands.

In 1985, Dimitris Mavrikis was fishing off nearby Peristera island when he spotted an ancient, 30-metrelong shipwreck that turned out to be loaded with 4,000 amphorae dating to around 425 BC. Soon the wreck was dubbed the Parthenon of Shipwrecks, and last year it became Greece’s first underwater museum. Divers can book an immersive experience; landlubbers can enjoy a virtual-reality tour at the information centre in Chora, the former hilltop capital. The village was devastated by an earthquake in 1965 but is now mostly restored and famous for its glorious sunsets. stellacruisesalonissos.gr alonissos-park.gr museum.alonissos.gov.gr

Most residents live near the port of Patitiri in the south of the island, where the Ikion Eco Boutique Hotel (from £109, B&B) is a great place to stay. ikion.com