DAY TWO BUNKERS & BALKAN BEATS

Morning

Catch the 07:15 train to Konjic, Bosnia and Herzegovina’s adventure capital. Book in advance to arrange river rafting and tours of Tito’s Bunker, available by appointment only. The bunker was believed to be a weapons storage facility until the 1990s, when its true purpose was revealed following the breakup of Yugoslavia. Underground, there are almost 70,000sq ft of rooms for everything from food storage to medical facilities, designed to keep President Tito and his cronies safe for up to six months in the wake of a nuclear attack. The bunker took 26 years to build and cost a staggering $4.6bn (£3.7bn) at the time. Today, it’s a contemporary gallery where artists explore themes such as war, politics and identity. visitkonjic.com

Afternoon

The best way to see the local scenery is from a raft on the Neretva River. There are mid-level rapids with occasional thrills, plus enough calm moments to admire the limestone cliffs reflected in the mineral-blue water. Most tours include a beach barbecue lunch. If you prefer something more sedate, head to Novalića Kula for a hearty mixed grill and coffee overlooking the Ottoman-era Old Bridge. Meander on to Zanat, a design shop and museum, where brothers Orhan and Adem Nikšić maintain the woodcarving tradition they inherited from their greatgrandfather, Gano. These days, the brothers bring in designers such as Harri Koskinen and Monica Förster to add some Scandi flair to a nowglobal Bosnian brand. zanat.org

Evening

Catch the 17:18 train back to Sarajevo for dinner at The Singing Nettle. Though old-fashioned in appearance, it’s popular among young Bosnians for its vegetarian takes on traditional food, plus its range of pestos, cakes and spirits made from — you guessed it — nettles. For nightlife, try busy local favourite City Pub for live rock music, then head west to the bar Balkan Express on Maršala Tita. It imitates a Communist-era apartment, with gilded portraits pinned to yellowing wallpaper and dim, Soviet subway-style lighting. Opposite is basement club Jazzbina, which hosts live jazz, blues and DJ sets. Grab a Sarajevsko beer and settle in for the night. thesingingnettle.com citypubsarajevo.com

Right: Preparing to enter the water for some river rafting in Konji