National Geographic Traveller (UK)




Start your foray into the secluded northernmo­st stretch of the island in Haría, a cluster of whitewashe­d buildings hidden in the Valle de las Mil Palmeras — the Valley of a Thousand Palms. The village is known for its busy Saturdaymo­rning artisanal market, but it’s equally rewarding (and quieter) to visit at other times. Wander past buildings with bright-green doors and shutters, typical of inland Lanzarote, to reach the Casa-Museo César Manrique at the southwest end of town, where the artist spent the final few years of his life. In the late 1980s, Manrique restored and extended a finca in a palm grove into a tranquil rural home, with classic furniture he designed himself and bathrooms drowning in lush greenery. Out the back, his studio is displayed pretty much as it was when he died in a car accident in 1992.


Drive 10 minutes southeast to the relaxed village of Arrieta for lunch overlookin­g La Garita Beach. One of several superb seafood restaurant­s in town, La Casa de la Playa is a popular haunt with its ocean-facing terrace and serves up the likes of fresh fish of the day, papas arrugadas (wrinkly potatoes) and seafood rice dishes. Afterwards, go swimming at Punta Mujeres, a small fishing village just north of Arrieta with a string of locally popular natural pools dotted along the waterfront. You could spend the entire afternoon relaxing here, but make time to dive into a final Manrique creation. Just five minutes’ drive north, the Jameos del Agua is a millennia-old volcanic tube that was reimagined by Manrique in the 1960s. It’s now a spectacula­r cultural space with bars, restaurant­s, a lagoon pool and concert hall. cactlanzar­


A scenic drive takes you back towards the Teguise area for the evening. Follow the LZ202, which loops past the Manrique-designed Mirador del Río lookout with views across to tiny Isla Graciosa, before taking the LZ10 south from Haría via Peñas del Chache, the highest point on the island. Nights in Teguise tend to be quiet, but there’s always a buzz at Cantina Teguise, where Haría-made smoked cheeses, burgers and Padrón peppers are served alongside wines from local bodegas like Vulcano and Bermejos in a restored 500-year-old house. Or head over to Costa Teguise, a 15-minute drive southeast, for dinner at SeBE, a restaurant that ranks among the island’s finest — it specialise­s in arroces (rice dishes) and seafood plates such as giant La Santa shrimp and smoked octopus with lentils. cantinateg­ seberestau­

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