Rare Rolex soars

Ahard-to-find ref. 3525 withblack dial, gold case a nd–r emarkably – its original strap has smashedits auction estimate in Switzerland

AT GENEVA BASED Antiquorum, this gold Rolex ref. 3525 beat estimate by SFr 60,000 to total SFr 150,000 (roughly £118,000) in the company’s 9 May sale. The ref. 3525 is probably best known for being the model that Hans Wilsdorf, Rolex’s owner, was confident enough to send to Allied prisoners of war, happily waiting until hostilities were over for payment. It’s also the first Rolex ‘Oyster’ case with its screwdown crow nand caseback to give a home to achronograph movement. In effect, its offspring is the modern Cosmograph Daytona.

At just 35 mm diameter–today considered positively emaciated for a chrono – it gives you a sense of just how hard modern watches have been hitting the pies. The contemporary Cosmograph Daytona has bulked up to 40mm in diameter and is a good deal thicker.

The other big difference between this ref. 3525 and the modern Rolex chronographs is the movement. Back in the 1940s and even well into the late 1980s, Rolex was happy to use other makers’ movements for its chronographs. This one is a Valjoux cal. 23, 17-jewel manual winder.

Rolex made the ref. 3525 only between 1939 and 1946, so you’ll not find many of these around …and even fewer black-dialled, gold-cased variants. Although this example has relumed hands, it’s in fine shape and still has its gold bracelet. Plen tyo f bracelets found their way in tot he smelting pot. It was a way of keeping your watch but still getting some cash back, so it’s good to see this one in one piece.