Battle of Britain museums
Two Kent venues remind us of ‘Britain’s darkest hour’
that pundits write about the downside of Britain’s part in World War Two, finding flaws in tactics and enjoying the luxury of hindsight. One area that usually escapes this treatment is the Battle of Britain, in which the might of the Luftwaffe was intended to destroy Britain’s air defences prior to invasion by Germany and its total domination of Europe.
The Royal Air Force became legendary during this epic struggle. In recent times the Goodwood
Revival has given us a taste of the atmosphere, with the thrilling sights and sounds of World War Two aircraft in close flight.
More permanently, two static but brilliant sites stand out. The first, Kent Battle of Britain Museum, sits on Aerodrome Road in a neat housing estate at Hawkinge, near Folkestone. In use since World War One, Hawkinge has retained some of its wartime buildings to present an outstanding exhibition of artefacts.
Original and replica aircraft are all around, both inside and outside the buildings and all with stories to tell. A crashed Messerschmitt Bf109e was flown by reputedly the only Luftwaffe pilot to escape from captivity and return to combat. A number of replicas, some of which featured in the film ,are gathered outside opposite a genuine Heinkel He111 H-16 bomber, its distinctive shape seen so often in films but here with a contemporary Austin saloon parked under its wing. As you look at it you gain growing respect for the bombardier, lying totally exposed in that Perspex nose with all hell going on outside.
Petrolheads, who tend to love anything mechanical, will be intrigued by a virtual wall of engines from crashed aircraft, all with details about their history and their pilots. Nearby, the old Armoury building contains what must be one of the best collections of uniforms and weapons to be found anywhere. After all this you can visit the 25 Squadron Café, a friendly little place, and the gift shop. Be aware, though, that visitors are expected to surrender cameras and mobile phones at the reception desk on entry. Or you could lock them in your car.
A few miles away is the Battle of Britain Memorial, a peaceful place centred around a statue of a lone airman staring out to sea. He has a serene expression and a sense of exhaustion, suggesting that the battle is over. Behind him is the Memorial Wall, where the names of The Few are engraved. Busts of Lord Dowding and Air Chief Marshall Sir Keith Park are alongside.
The Spitfire-wing-shaped main building cost £3.5m to create, but it’s surely worth every penny. The Scramble Experience within is a reminder of the fury of air warfare; a timeline describes the battle and a large screen depicts the reality of it to the young men involved.
After that it’s a delight to sit on the Cockpit Café balcony gazing out to sea, overlooking a replica Spitfire and Hurricane and feeling grateful to the young people that made it possible. Again, there’s a gift shop. Together, these two museums make for a moving day out.
KENT BATTLE OF BRITAIN MUSEUM, Aerodrome Road, Hawkinge, Kent CT18 7AG. Open: 2 April-13 November, closed Mondays. Admission: adult £10, seniors £9, children 5-15 £4. Website: kbobm.org
BATTLE OF BRITAIN MEMORIAL, Capel-leFerne, Kent CT18 7JJ. Open: all year round. Admission free, small car park charge. Scramble Experience: adult £6, children 5-16 £4. Website: battleofbritainmemorial.org