Weekender: Tisbury
Pit-fired salmon and ember-roasted potatoes, dew-dropped glasses of rosé, and warm, chewy chocolate cookies – all reasons to shout about this tranquil Wiltshire village
Pit-fired salmon and ember-roasted potatoes, dewdropped glasses of rosé, and warm, chewy chocolate cookies – all reasons to shout about this Wiltshire village
1 Secret garden You might come to furtively nibble at the tayberry bushes and kiwis (really!) in this 18th-century walled garden, but you’ll stay at Pythouse Kitchen Garden for the fat flakes of salmon, smoked over a pit-fire, served with salty, ember-baked potatoes and justpicked garden salads. pythousekitchengarden.co.uk
2 Right direction The Compasses Inn looks like a traditional boozer but within it are Scandi-chic bedrooms, with warm chocolate cookies delivered as you unpack. Save room for pillowy soft gnocchi, in a broad bean, mint and parmesan sauce, eaten with a view over the lush surrounding hillsides. thecompassesinn.com
3 Arms race Vie with locals for a table at The Beckford Arms, then indulge in the seasonal pub menu. Try elegant pan-fried sea bass with artichoke purée, samphire and fennel, and finish with grown-up shakes spiked with spiced rum and salted caramel ice cream. beckfordarms.com 4 Eats and crafts If it’s sensory overload you’re after, book a stay at The Craftsman’s
Cottage (right). Expect to be welcomed with a hamper stuffed with award-winning artisanal food and drink, while the kitchen sports tableware from Another Country. While you’re there, book on to a pottery course. thecraftsmanscottage.com
5 Great catch Whether you’re shopping for a haul for home, or have gone self-catering, head to The Fishmongers in Tisbury town centre for mackerel from Cornish day boats, one of in-house cook Ruth’s fishy ready meals, and pretty tins of Ortiz sardines. There’s a cracking butcher across the road, too. thefishmongers.co.uk
6 Bottle bank With a 300-strong collection of wines from around the world (including its own Languedoc rosé), as well as craft ale and cider, The Beckford Bottle Shop is a mustvisit for picnic provisions. Or, ask for a bottle to be opened and settle down with a glass on the shop’s huge red Chesterfield. beckfordbottleshop.com 7 Picnic-me-up Punctuate all the rambling and wild swimming that is a must round these parts by loading up at Tisbury Deli. Pick up West Country-made Costa Rican milk chocolate studded with Maldon sea salt, fresh fruit smoothies and Stonehenge beers made using local spring water. tisburydeli.co.uk
8 Scandi chic Norwegian cookbook author and photographer Marte Marie Forsberg runs food and lifestyle retreats from her idyllic Tisbury cottage kitchen. Live the dream and book to bake and photograph Scandinavian kransekake (a traditional multilayered celebration cake), or enjoy a private residential workshop. mmforsberg.com
9 The white stuff When in the countryside why not buy milk straight from the farm (via a vending machine). Head to Church Farm Dairy and fill glass bottles to the brim with fresh (less than 24 hours old), non-homogenised milk, seven days a week. churchfarmdairysemley.com
10 Bag it up Down a bumpy track, with bantams and mallards as the welcoming committee, Clementine’s Shop serves flapjacks and tea overlooking a 19th-century courtyard. Stock up on gifts and kitchen kit (china, linen, tableware) while you’re there. clementinesshop.com
HOW TO DO IT
Doubles at The Compasses Inn start from £110, b&b (thecompassesinn.com). More info: visitwiltshire.co.uk.