Olive Magazine

Chef’s table

Enjoy wholesome, simple food that’s big on flavour from chef Jess Elliott Dennison of new Edinburgh restaurant, 27 Elliott’s

- Recipes JESS ELLIOTT DENNISON Photograph­s PAUL DODDS

Founded by cookbook author and food stylist Jess Elliott Dennison, 27 Elliott’s is a small neighbourh­ood café set in Edinburgh’s leafy Southside that serves seasonal breakfast and lunch, and hosts its own supper clubs. Jess (who previously worked for Jamie Oliver’s food and homeware range) commands the pass, overlookin­g a space adorned with sharing tables, long benches and a great window seat. Her shtick is using the best produce in an accessible, effortless­ly cool way, and serving it all on locally crafted, handthrown ceramics. A weekly changing menu, on a blackboard, follows the seasons and embraces local producers wherever possible – sourdough loaves come from a nearby bakery and an Edinburgh roastery provides the coffee. There isn’t much meat on the menu, but those that eat it won’t notice; you certainly won’t go hungry here.

Expect moreish breakfast dishes of sage-fried eggs with lemony greens and crunchy sourdough toast, or bay-roasted cherries, strained yogurt, toasted almonds and honey. Lunch plates including red-wine-braised butter beans and herby aïoli, and orange-braised carrots, herb-flecked pearl barley, cranberrie­s and walnuts really show off Jess’s creative cookery skills. There are pickles and ferments, too, as well as fresh pasta with homemade ricotta. Flavours are simply but expertly brought together, with vegetables the stars of the show.

Fermented ginger beer and homemade sodas, preserved fruit cordials, trendy shrubs, loose-leaf teas, hot chocolates and iced coffees are served alongside great espressos.

Breakfast here is too good to ignore – so don’t be bound by traditiona­l mealtimes and make sure you order something from that menu whatever time you arrive for the best experience. Come back later for homemade ice cream and seasonal cakes and bakes, including sea salt and chocolate rye cookies, and roasted berry galettes. 27elliotts.com

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