Chef’s ta­ble

From whisky vend­ing ma­chines and punch foun­tains to but­ter chicken wings and masala pork scratch­ings – Bri­gadiers is redefin­ing In­dian din­ing in the cap­i­tal

Olive - - CONTENTS - Recipes KARAM SETHI Photographs CLARE LEW­ING­TON

Feast on lav­ish In­dian bar­be­cue dishes from new Lon­don restau­rant Bri­gadiers

From the group be­hind Sa­bor, Hop­pers and Lyle’s, JKS Restau­rants has opened Bri­gadiers in the City of Lon­don, a bar­be­cue joint and drink­ing den in­spired by the army mess tav­erns of In­dia. Wrapped around the corner of the cathe­dral-sized Bloomberg Ar­cade, Bri­gadiers is as slick as the crowds it at­tracts. Red leather booths sit along­side plush vel­vet cur­tains, dis­tressed mir­rored walls and mon­key lamps. There are two bars – Blighters and The Tap Room, where you can find a whisky vend­ing ma­chine, on-tap cock­tails, cham­pagne and punch foun­tains, and speedy, self-serve beer taps – and then the restau­rant proper.

The menu starts with smaller beer snacks be­fore mov­ing on to heartier plat­ters of ke­babs, chops and birya­nis. Puffy, crisp, su­per-savoury chicken-skin crack­ers topped with chicken, soured cream and a wafer-thin slither of radish are a light way to start, be­fore mov­ing on to onion bha­jis ooz­ing with gruyère and moz­zarella, with a silky mango chut­ney on the side. But­tery brioche buns filled with flaky, fra­grant fish flavoured with ginger, gar­lic and cumin are like posh In­dian fish fin­ger sarnies.

If you’re only go­ing to or­der one snack, though, make it the mor­eish BBQ but­ter chicken wings (or make them your­self us­ing the recipe on page 82, from co-founder and group ex­ec­u­tive chef Karam Sethi) – suc­cu­lent smoky chicken basks in a rich con­coc­tion of dou­ble cream and cashew nut paste be­fore fall­ing from the bone.

Leave room for the sikan­dari kid goat shoul­der – ten­der chunks of goat and sliv­ers of crunchy lacha onions top rich, but­tery parathas. Save one of the parathas to tear apart and dip into sides of fiery red chilli, re­fresh­ing green chilli sauce and cool­ing cu­cum­ber raita.

Desserts lighten the palate af­ter all that bar­be­cue smoke. Four types of soft-serve kulfi are on offer, but the best is the roasted, slightly spicy, kheer flavour served with chunks of char­grilled saf­fron pear and nuggets of candied wal­nut. brigadier­slon­

• For the green chilli chut­ney, put all of the in­gre­di­ents into a food pro­ces­sor with a lit­tle sea­son­ing, and whizz un­til smooth.

• Skewer 4 pieces of pa­neer on each of 4 skew­ers, al­ter­nat­ing with pieces of pep­per and onion. Heat a grill (or BBQ in warmer weather) to high and cook the skew­ers for 4-5 min­utes on each side un­til charred, then serve sprin­kled gen­er­ously with the kabab masala, co­rian­der and green chilli chut­ney.



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