Our pro says…

Despite his smiley celeb chef image, Tom Kerridge means business. His London debut, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, is testament to that. With a dining room designed by David Collins Studio, it’s relaxed but simultaneously fancy. A lofty green ceiling, buttoned leather banquettes and glass-fronted meat fridges doubling as statement artwork all whip up a posh pub vibe.

On arrival, we’re taken to a corner table, facing a headless bronze sculpture called Steve. No one bats an eyelid when I ask for tap water. *I don’t think I was recognised.

Next, it’s charming sommelier Charles Beaini’s turn. He suggests a muscat orange wine – one of 2,000 batches, apparently. Dinner kicks off with coronation chicken terrine. This ain’t no ordinary corrie, it’s a showstopper. The chicken gizzards and other poultry parts pack a punch with mango and curry nudges, a blob of celery mayo imparts a slap of earthy freshness. With the apricot and tangerine notes from the wine, it’s impeccable.

My sidekick’s potato and rocket soup with wholegrain mustard and rarebit croûte is another example of technically assured cooking, arriving peppery, creamy and emerald as a spring day.

All eight mains that day came with flesh – a vegetarian would struggle. I pick pig’s cheek pie, a dish playfully resembling a snout. The deepflavoured suet crust encases fatty, rich pork, the neighbouring creamy mash with flecks of crispy black pud on top is a judicious element. My partner’s fish and chips are nicely made thanks to an airy, crisp batter. Tartare sauce speckled with tangy capers, pease pudding and “Matson” spiced sauce alongside spruce up things further.

For pud, a leaning Pisa of blackcurrant soufflé is refreshing, its rich, sharp blackcurrant tower with a moat of chlorophyll-tasting blackcurrant leaf cream. So clever is it, if I shut my eyes, I’m right there, picking from the hedgerow.

THE BOTTOM LINE

This has Kerridge’s DNA all over it, a menu lacking pomposity, with interesting execution of accessible dishes. While some starters hit a jaw-dropping £29, I’d argue the food is affordable if you pick right. There are few places of this ilk you’ll find a three-course pre-theatre menu for £29.50, which my partner had. Considering the delightful service, too, I’d return.

Total bill for two, excluding service: £89.50 FOOD: 9/10 SERVICE: 9/10 VIBE: 7/10 TOTAL 25/30