Retro dishes are back

Olive - - EAT -

Once the pre­serve of 70s din­ner par­ties and 80s of­fice buf­fets, the hum­ble vol au vent has shaken off its dated im­age and been re­vived by a num­ber of top chefs. At Christ­mas in 2017, Hélène Dar­roze launched a Hélène at Home range of party food at the Har­rods Food Hall, which in­cluded vol au vents filled with lob­ster, sweet­breads and sal­sify. Bris­tol restau­rant Well­bourne has a num­ber of sea­sonal vol au vents (the trompettes ver­sion be­ing our favourite); and crab vol au vents with avo­cado, green ap­ple and crab bisque have be­come an In­stafavourite at Ker­ridge’s Bar & Grill, where other retro dishes such as beef fag­gots are served with mus­tard mash, charred onions and trompettes. Who else is hop­ing for next-gen cheese and pineap­ple hedge­hogs?

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