HARLEQUIN, LONDON SW6
From the same hands-on trio behind Hackney’s Nest, Harlequin is their latest venture, with chef James Erasmus behind the pass. He’s worked in the kitchens of The Ledbury and The Harwood Arms, and continues to champion British produce and seasons in his new Fulham home, along with some interesting inspirations via his South African roots.
There’s no à la carte here, instead a monthly changing set menu of five courses. Pickled, rollmop-like rounds of aubergine arrive first, along with a freshly baked bun, homemade butter, whipped walnut and cumin-spiked hummus, and supple slices of fuschia biltong carpaccio, nudged into pretty folds, kissed with spice, sitting with pickled shallots and a rich, sharp dressing.
A salad of winter leaves was far more exciting than the menu led us to believe. Crisp and bitter leaves crowned a cream of salty pecorino, and were punctuated with crunchy shards of mellow, caramelised garlic and slivers of mushrooms, lightly pickled, and dressed with a final shower of grated cheese. A masterful handling of simple ingredients.
Fish is treated with equal respect – deceptively translucent cod collapses into firm, well-seasoned flakes onto a bed of ham hock and soft white beans that act like sponges for the meaty jus that surrounds them.
Dessert was straight out of South Africa: a malva (sponge) pudding – buttery and, in this instance, bittersweet thanks to the addition of Seville oranges, cooled with a comforting ball of custard ice cream.
These guys are just as good at cocktails as they are food, but don’t miss out on the wine here. Fort Simon 2014 pinotage from Stellenbosch is seriously smooth and rounded, with a hint of chocolate.