Our pro says...

After engaging in an actual frolic (an activity which is basically an urban legend to us city folk) along the seafront, we meander up towards the pub for dinner. The menu draws on the reliable formula of new-wave London gastropubs – think British with a Mediterranean spin. This has worked well in the past but, on this occasion, vegetables fare very well but the meat and fish not so much.

We order wine and, while I’m all for nostalgia, the heavily oaky Chilean chardonnay is a bit of a throwback. We switch to a fresher and citrussy viognier, which was better. Not great, but better.

Soft and fragrant sourdough, and a light, springy focaccia were both excellent – so good we ordered more to mop up the delicious grilled tomato and the pesto with our mackerel starter. The mackerel itself was a bit mushy. Our other starter – overcooked and burnt-tasting grilled squid – was saved by its bed of fresh and well-balanced fennel and chilli salad. The main of a nicely cooked piece of hake restored our faith that this self-proclaimed fish-forward restaurant could prepare a decent piece of fish.

Our other main was rack of lamb for two. Although the cutlets were nicely cooked, with a good crust, they lacked flavour. However, the baked red onions and roast tomato and almond-based romesco sauce underneath the lamb was delicious. The highlight of the meal was the chips – thick-cut, crisp and golden on the outside, soft in the middle, proper chips.

We end with almond tart with sweet pieces of Mirabelle plum in its frangipane filling, and a rich slab of silky chocolate terrine with raspberries and candied mint. Both pleasant but not outstanding – a good summary of this whole dining experience.