Kate Hawkings on...

O’s wine expert on why this nation’s producers are well worth supporting

his has been a tough year for so many, and the wine industry is no exception. Despite a sharp upturn in sales of wine to drink at home, the closure of bars and restaurants over lockdown led to an overall drop in wine sales of nearly 50% in the UK, a pattern mirrored across the world. All wine-producing regions have been affected, but some have had it worse than others.

South Africa suffered a double whammy when its government imposed anti-Covid measures, calling a halt on wine exports for five weeks in March and a ban on all sales of alcohol in the country that was only lifted in the middle of August. The cost has already been high, with wineries and grape growers going out of business, and thousands of jobs being lost.

The anti-apartheid trade boycotts, largely led by consumers, not only played a major part in dismantling South Africa’s oppressive regime in the early 1990s but also kickstarted its modern wine industry. It is now one of the world’s most diverse and dynamic, producing around 850 million litres a year, which range from budget supermarket bottles made in vast quantities to wines that stand shoulder to shoulder with the world’s best, and with plenty of interesting options in between.

Environmental sustainability is taken seriously there (drought is a constant threat) and there are compulsory measures in place to protect the unique biodiversity and preserve it for future generations.

South Africa is also addressing its troubled history of racial inequality. Impressive initiatives include the Land of Hope Trust established in 2007, with the primary objective of providing high-quality education not previously available to black children, and to encourage more people of colour to enter the wine-making business. Another is Bosman Adama, formed in 2009 when it gave its workers a 26% share in the business and its vineyards, and created facilities to improve the working conditions, health and education of those workers and their families. Last year it launched Adama Wines, which is run by an all-black team of women.

There are now some 65 black-owned wine companies, and while black winemakers are still very much in a minority, their numbers are slowly increasing. However, all this is now at very real risk.

Covid has left us all with a sense of powerlessness. It may seem a small and insignificant gesture but buying wine can be a meaningful act of solidarity with ethically minded producers whose futures are in jeopardy, and go a long way to help ensure that their good work continues.

Kate Hawkings is a writer and wine consultant. Her debut book, Aperitif, was published in 2018. Follow her on Twitter @katehawkings.

TVilliera Shiraz Merlot 2019 (£8, M&S) Robust yet very gluggable, fruity but still fresh. This is made by young black winemaker Nathan Valentine – try it with the slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with Chinese pancakes on p19.

Bosman Adama Fairtrade Red (£10, Co-op) Co-op has long championed South Africa’s Fairtrade wines, including this rich and plummy red with a peppery finish that would suit meaty dishes or the sweet potato burgers on p58.

Land of Hope Reserve Chenin Blanc 2019 (£12.95, thewinesociety.com)

A little skin contact gives extra depth and bite to exuberant, peachy fruit: lovely with the roast chicken breast with spicy peanut sauce on p57.

Tesselaarsdal Chardonnay 2019 (£29.50, swig.co.uk, or £27.88, laywheeler.com)

Berene Sauls is one of South Africa’s most highly regarded winemakers. This stunning chardonnay, aged in clay amphorae, is dazzling pure and balanced. The creamy salmon pasta on p56 would be a great match.

Heaven on Earth Muscat d’Alexandrie (£9.99, vintageroots.co.uk)

Made from grapes dried on straw to concentrate their sugars. Sweet and luscious but not too sticky – a perfect partner for fruity puds or a soft blue cheese.