74 Cook like a local: Denmark

Ten energetic opinion-formers share the positive changes they hope to see this year – from championing diverse cuisines to tackling racial inequality – and how you can help

Explore the larder of this Nordic nation

Chef Zoe Adjonyoh, co-founder of Black Book, a representation platform for black and non-white people working in hospitality and food media blackbook-global.com

“In part, Black Book works with restaurant clients to undo systems that suffocate their ability to attract and develop talent, fairly and equitably. Prioritising anti-racism is not as simple as randomly hiring more black or non-white people. Without a deep examination of a business’s culture, language, policies, nothing will stick. It’s virtue signalling. I don’t think diners can assess whether a restaurant is racist or not. How could they? But they can ask questions (like, does this restaurant pay decent wages?), and question their own choices. Is this menu unfairly appropriating another food culture? Is that profiteering hampering wealth creation in non-white communities? Should I buy dinner at a blackowned business where this food is culturally important?”

ZOE’S FOOD INSPIRATIONS

CBD, “fast becoming my favourite ingredient”;

Whetstone, whetstonemagazine.com; the cultural and cooking content at

tastemakersafrica.com

The championing of Caribbean cooking

Keshia Sakarah, chef-owner of Caribe’, London caribeuk.com

“First and foremost, Caribbean culture is not respected. That extends to how, unlike other immigrant cuisines such as Thai or Italian, Caribbean food has not been given the space to break through. Roti and curry goat is seen as takeaway comfort food rather than restaurant dining. From the lack of Caribbean chefs in influential positions to cooks and business owners struggling to get bank loans for restaurants, this has institutionally racist roots. I’ve had people tell me my food is ‘too simple’. But Caribbean food is humble home cooking. There should be just as much fanfare around cultural food with a proud history as there is highly technical, Euro-centric dishes. When people try new food they should ignore inherent bias and be open.”

KESHIA’S FOOD INSPIRATIONS:

Fiona Compton’s

knowyourcaribbean.com; Yotam Ottolenghi,

ottolenghi.co.uk; Nadiya Hussain, nadiyahussain.com

Pamela Yung, head chef of Flor and ASAP Pizza, London florlondon.com

“Last year, there was a general awakening about who produces our food. From a restaurant standpoint, I’ve always sourced that way: giving back to producers as much as possible in monetary exchange, recognition and support. I enjoy that dialogue with farmers about what’s good right now and what they need to move, versus hand-picking X, Y and Z. I trust them. I want them in business. They’re critical to everything I do.”

PAMELA’S FOOD INSPIRATIONS

Heart of Dinner initiative in Pamela’s native New York, @heartofdinner; Vittles newsletter, vittles.substack.com; fellow heritage wheat fans, brockwell-bake.org.uk

Jonny Heyes, owner of Common, Manchester aplacecalledcommon.co.uk

“Post-Covid, a big trend will be shorter, specialised restaurant menus which enable venues to adhere to their values. Old Common was fun but I disliked the amount of meat and imported ingredients we used and that whole ‘big menus’ thing needs booming demand. It’s financially tighter now and our NY-inspired Nell’s Pizza menu is our sustainable response. We’re using less kitchen energy, less but better quality meat, and more British produce, such as Shipton Mill’s organic flour. We should be a Living Wage Foundation employer by early 2021, too.”

JONNY’S FOOD INSPIRATIONS

Hawksmoor, thehawksmoor.com; Marcus Rashford; Eat Well MCR, eatwellmcr.org