Pro vs punter
Our pro says Critic Eileen Twum and O reader Vaneetha Balasubramaniam test a meal kit from North West-based restaurant group Elite Bistros
A critic and an reader compare notes on O Elite Bistros’ at-home restaurant kits
“After a seamless online order for our three-course meal kit from Elite Bistros, unfortunately it got caught in the London postal mess that is Black Friday and Christmas. Even though it arrived late, the ‘elite’ packaging ensured the food was still fresh and ready to prepare.
“I have to admit that the preparation part of most restaurant kits that I’ve tried stresses me out. QR codes that take you to online recipe cards that you have to view on your phone, while pulling together a plethora of bits and bobs in pans and the oven can be a lot. But, with this kit, after an hour or so of ‘cooking’, an excellent meal appears that was well worth the effort.
“The dinner is very smart, creative and, at times, stunning. The flavours and textures are so well thought through, and this meal was the first during lockdown that reminded me that there’s a considerable difference between restaurants that serve food, and restaurants that serve a gastronomical experience.
“The Elite Bistros menu throws together ingredients that you feel, as an amateur cook, should have no business coming together, like the broccoli starter that comes with red grapes, a roasted garlic and almond sauce, toasted almonds, and, out of nowhere, fresh dill. It’s a nutty, delightful dish that left me happily surprised.
“The lamb’s neck starter is a perfect balance of sweet, savoury and texture, which turned out to be the key theme of this meal. Fried and lovingly wrapped in smoked garlic honey, it’s accompanied by butter bean mash, topped with a paprika-based dukkah spice mix.
“The main, braised featherblade of beef, is perfectly tender. I’ve dreamt about the truffle potato mash it’s served with every night since – it was divine.
“The only weak dish is the duck, as the red wine sauce slightly overpowers the meal. But, the sides – cauliflower cheese, braised cabbage (I’d happily drink the braising liquid!) and purple carrots wrapped in that smoked garlic honey – are all strong supporting acts.
“The meal finishes with caramelised white chocolate mousse and a banana loaf with a butterscotch sauce and clotted cream – a glorious twist on sticky toffee pud.
“Elite Bistros is a real treat, and a restaurant experience that you can have at home in the truest sense.”
Ease of ordering: 9/10 Food: 9/10
Prep: 6/10
Total: 24/30
Reacting to the ever-changing operational environment that came with the Covid-19 pandemic, Gary Usher, owner of the Elite Bistros group of restaurants (which includes the beloved Burnt Tru!le and Hispi, located in the North West), launched Elite Bistros at Home during the summer of 2020. The pre-prepared restaurant kits come with a QR code that links to online recipe cards that show you how to "nish o! the dishes at home. Delivery is available nationwide, and the 16-item menu features classic Elite Bistros o!erings, such as braised octopus and the signature eight-hour braised featherblade of beef. There’s free delivery for orders over £80, and bottles of wine can be ordered with the kit, starting at £12 for a bottle of vermentino white wine. elitebistros.com/product-category/elite-at-home