Kitchens to covet
Emiko Davies’ kitchen design pays tribute to her adopted homeland, Tuscany
I’m a cookbook author and, although I’m originally from Australia, I grew up in China and lived in the US before finding my way to Italy. I’ve been in Florence for more than 15 years, but we’ve just bought and renovated our first home – an apartment that dates back to 1800 – in my husband’s hometown of San Miniato, which is halfway between Florence and Pisa on a beautiful, white-truffle-laden hilltop. We have two lively girls – Mariù is eight and Luna is nearly three. After living in the tiniest apartment in Florence, we feel spoiled in this space with its high ceilings and huge, two-metre high windows that look out over the valley.
The kitchen, for us, is so much more than just a kitchen. I’m constantly testing and taking photos of recipes, or making videos. The girls are often in on it all with me or Marco – he’s a sommelier and the designated family cook. He’s often sharing the kitchen with me, so counter space is highly sought after. We wanted to make the most of the room so we could put in a large Smeg multi-zone induction cooktop and wide sink by the window (my dream!), while also having plenty of counter space.
I approached a small company, Very Simple Kitchen in Bologna (verysimplekitchen.com).
It makes functional, versatile, custom kitchen modules inspired by vintage industrial workbenches. This meant everything would be durable and practical (something I wanted), but as it can all be made using any material or colour you can imagine, it would also be less ‘professional kitchen’ and more ‘home’. It’s the best of both.
The cabinets are powder-coated in a chameleon-like colour that changes according to the light – sometimes it’s a dark, smoky blue, other times it’s a deep teal hue.
I fell in love with the terrazzo top as soon as I saw it – it’s an ancient Italian technique that recycles stone and marble off-cuts, so it’s pretty and practical. We chose one with greens and peachy pinks that recalls the colours of the antique tiles in the other rooms. It’s so cheery, it looks like someone’s just spread confetti through the kitchen. When I walk in there and see that top, I just start smiling.
We decided to not do shelves or kitchen cabinets – I love how open the kitchen feels with its tall ceilings – but we do need to put things somewhere! I was inspired by the lived-in look of the kitchen in the northern Italian villa in the film Call Me by Your Name, especially the use of hooks to hang pans and utensils.
We pulled out an old table from my mother-inlaw’s attic that had been forgotten about for almost 40 years. When it was cleaned it up, we discovered it had a marble top. It looks right at home, as if it was always meant to be here.
I consider my kitchen a very low-tech space. My previous kitchen in Florence was not only small but also had no electrical outlets, so I couldn’t even use an electric whisk – my hand whisk got a lot of good use. It made me realise that I can easily live without those things. I don’t even own a mixer. But I can’t live without a good, sharp knife and plenty of wooden spoons. I love my Microplane, too – there’s nothing like it for zesting lemons.
For others looking to redesign their kitchen, I would repeat the same thing a good Florentine friend told me: the tiles and backsplash you choose can make such a difference to the overall appearance of the kitchen. Choose tiles you really do love – you calculate the cost by the square metre, so it’s not usually as expensive as you might think at first. Also, do buy a bit more than you think you’ll need – we ended up adding another layer of tiles and covering the side wall by the sink after the kitchen was already put in, and I’m so glad we did.
the kitchen is the heart o o r ho e, and it is the first time w ’v actual y had space to hav a dining tab e
Essential kitchen kit?
My kitchen knives, handmade in Florence by Fabio Figus – a present from my husband. Also, my beautiful Ruffoni pans – they’re heirlooms that I’ll pass on to my kids!
What’s always in your fridge?
Wine, milk, butter, parmesan and, for homesick moments, a stash of Vegemite.
Is there a family dish you cook again and again? Spaghetti con le vongole. So simple but always feels like a real treat (also one of the rare dishes that everyone will eat without complaining!).
Give us a recipe in a sentence, maybe something you eat when you’re on your own?
My comfort food is something my mother made for me when I was a child: you beat an egg with a dash of soy sauce and quickly stir-fry it with some left-over rice in a lightly oiled pan until the rice is piping hot and the egg is just scrambled.
Favourite O recipe?
The apple and cinnamon muffins go down a treat.
Favourite cookbook?
I have too many to name just one, but Laurie Colwin’s Home Cooking and Patience Grey’s Honey from a Weed are gems.
Favourite restaurant?
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence – it’s reliable and unchanging. The juicy butter chicken that arrives sizzling at the table is something that always puts a smile on my face.
Reasons to be cheerful in 2021?
My girls, and just making the most of slowing down, keeping it local and reassessing what is essential.