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M&S Classics Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2019

£8, ocado.com Sauv blancs from the Loire tend to be more mineral-driven and less tropical than those from Australasia, and this is a textbook example at a very smart price.

Thierry Germain Domaine des Roches Neuves SaumurChampigny 2019

£18, lescaves.co.uk

A wonderful biodynamic cabernet franc, earthy but vibrant, with crunchy bramble fruits and peppery spice. Try slightly chilled with the roast chicken with coffee and chocolate mole on p31.

Coteaux du Layon St Aubin, Domaine Forges 2019

£10.99, Waitrose Balanced sweetness and acidity with seductive notes of honey and dried apricots. Brilliant with blue cheese, and a brave but successful match with the chicken stroganoff on p40.

Morrisons The Best Touraine Rosé

£7.75, Morrisons Cabernet franc and gamay are blended in this bargain rosé. Full of summery berries and sunshine, it’s a top match for the honey masala chicken with tangy corn and mango on p48.

Bouvet-Ladubay Blanc de Blancs Crémant de Loire

£17.99, Majestic

A smart choice for lovers of blanc de blancs champagnes (meaning they’re made with 100% chardonnay grapes) – fantastic value for some very classy bubbles.