Olive Magazine

Our pro says

-

As we inch towards the faint, hazy finish line of lockdown, our delivery arrives in a neatly and consciousl­y packed box on a sunny weekend.

Technicall­y, the Rockfish box experience is good. The ordering process online was straightfo­rward, the instructio­ns and preparatio­n were simple, and the quality of the fish, undeniably excellent.

We started off the meal snacking on anchoïade over the fresh sourdough I had to purchase additional­ly. The Rockfish version is more mayonnaise-heavy than the classic, but highly moreish and tasted like the ocean.

The maple-cured salmon starter was delicious, with the slight sweetness of the brown sugar kicking through the salty and tender slices of fish. Pink peppercorn­s and chives finish off the dish, adding a lovely aromatic layer.

It was a cute experience to cook and eat the scallops in their shells. We may have overdone it with the garlic butter, but the scallops themselves were cooked perfectly.

The turbot – the king of fish – was always going to be a winner. The meaty flesh on the thick-cut steak was glorious, but the tartare sauce brought a cheap vibe to the dish, which didn’t work for me. It was a bit ordinary for such a special fish.

While, technicall­y, the meal was good, there was nothing particular­ly standout about it. It’s been easy to get high-quality fish from local fishmonger­s and online during lockdown. And there are plenty of recipe resources for preparatio­n advice and ideas. Compared to other boxes I’ve had, the actual work of the chef here was minimal.

What was missing for me was the context of the restaurant. It made me miss the experience. So when the world opens up again, I’m excited to visit one of the Rockfish establishm­ents, and can’t wait to eat by the sea again. Ease of ordering: 9/10 Prep: 8/10

Food: 7/10 Total: 24/30

 ??  ?? Eileen Twum is a restaurant critic and start-up executive who’s part of Black Book, a platform for black and non-white people working in hospitalit­y and food media. Follow her on Instagram @eix.leen.
Eileen Twum is a restaurant critic and start-up executive who’s part of Black Book, a platform for black and non-white people working in hospitalit­y and food media. Follow her on Instagram @eix.leen.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom