Our pro says

It’s a nippy night as we head to Heddon Street – the tucked-away pedestrianised street in central London that Mo Diner resides on – and it’s buzzing.

Even though we are seated at the colourful tables outside due to Covid restrictions, the inside of Mo Diner is where we hope to eventually spend our days, evenings and nights when it’s safer to do so. The mix of nostalgic Americana, art deco and North African flair makes for a very stylish yet relaxed environment where you can imagine spending hours nattering, eating and drinking with your bubble. This mix of cultures is a running feature of the whole menu.

The all-day menu is a meze to be shared. Some of the dishes came out a little too fast, which meant that the cool air got to some of them before we had time to enjoy them at their optimal temperature. We start with the harissa margarita, which comes with a blow of spice from the harissa-rimmed glass, making it an interesting and slightly dangerous take on the tequila-based classic.

The unassuming-looking North African harira soup arrives shortly after. It’s light and soothing, yet has an intense depth of flavour brought about by the slowcooking of a long list of herbs and spices in chicken stock. It’s an absolute knockout that’s followed by an equally good m’abbouleh salad, a cheeky take on classic tabbouleh, with kale for robustness and apple for zing.

More plates follow: the courgettes that feature in the well-seasoned falafel are a lovely twist that brightens up the fluffy interior. The spicy merguez sausages wrapped in a soft pitta pack a serious punch in spice and flavour, and are intensified by a chilli slaw. The chicken gyro is near perfection, but the lemon pickle – a concept I adore – unfortunately overpowers it.

We end our meal with gooey, warm chocolate cookie dough and delectable layered banoffee pie presented in old-school American-style sundae glasses. These make me want to rush back to create more nostalgic moments.

Bill for two, including service: £114.70 Atmosphere: 9

Service: 8

Food: 7

Total: 24/30

Eileen Twum is a restaurant critic and start-up executive who’s part of Black Book, a platform for black and non-white people working in hospitality and food media. Follow her on Instagram @eix.leen.