Our punter says
I’m intrigued to see if the vibrant look of the online menu matches the reality of Mo Diner, and I’m not disappointed. From the Wes Anderson-esque interior to the spicy harissa margaritas, it is wonderfully unique. With its small outdoor set-up of pastel-coloured tables and cosy heaters, it offers an ideal space for lunch.
Our visit is bookended with warm, attentive service, with staff explaining in detail the hybrid North African/ Mediterranean meze dishes. From the cocktail menu, The Green Park is fresh and tart, while the harissa margarita embodies the unique blend of heat and traditional flavours that the restaurant showcases.
The chicken gyro is juicy and lemony but doesn’t heavily feature the black olive powder as billed on the menu. The sardinas en conservas are infused with fragrant fennel pollen, and the zingy carrot salad has sweet orange and earthy almonds. The gambas kadaif is a real highlight: meaty prawns encased in crunchy vermicelli and dunked into velvety aïoli. The petit pot pistache is wedding pudding worthy, with cloud-like pistachio chantilly coating a silky chocolate ganache.
Although we ordered meat-heavy, there are many veggie options. Plus, the house Lamburgini Merci sandwich and others can be made vegan. The menu’s accessibility is impressive but the recommended two or three plates per person is not sufficient. For our budget, £30 for four filling plates is steep but, for an occasion, it’s certainly worth it
Bill for two, including service: £97.75 Atmosphere: 8
Service: 9
Food: 8
Total: 25/30 • These reviews took place before the latest lockdown. At the time of going to press, Mo Diner is due to reopen on 17 May. Reservations can be made in advance online or by joining the restaurant’s virtual queue for reservations on the day. Find out more at modiner.london. The information in this article was in line with the government’s Covid-19 restrictions when we went to press, but please check with restaurants before visiting.