Our pro says

Let’s make it clear – I love a chophouse. The feel, the energy and, more than anything, the food. There are few things I enjoy more than quality meat cooked over fire and, on paper, Block Soho ticked those boxes.

Seafood is sourced from Newlyn Harbour Fish Market in Cornwall and delivered to the restaurant daily, and whole cuts of meat are bought from Huntsham Court Farm, hung and aged in the restaurant’s own Himalayan salt chamber and butchered on site. Sounding good so far but sadly something seems to have got lost in translation.

The starter of smoked pulled pork on sourdough toast with apple gravy didn’t quite hit the mark, with a distinct lack of smokiness. The English shellfish cocktail starter proved to be quite nice with generous chunks of crayfish tail and a few whole prawns, though granted it is £17 which, for context, is pricier than some mains.

Oh, and speaking of mains (gosh I do love a good segue), as expected the usual steak suspects are all accounted for – fillet, ribeye, sirloin and beef rump. However, what was unexpected was its lack of flavour, though this was partially saved by a rather solid peppercorn sauce and a dish of swordfish chop with a rich samphire butter which was easily the highlight of the meal. Sides are necessary and the options here are pretty safe: the skin-on fries will be popular, as will the charred corn on the cob with thyme butter.

Rounding out was a delightful house seasonal fruit mess and a less delightful warm apple crumble that was more crumble than apple, served with a dull lemongrass and thyme custard and vanilla ice cream. Add in a pretty generic take on an industrial fit-out, and you’ve got yourself all the makings for a pretty average night.

However, there are redeeming qualities of the liquid variety which may tempt some with a strong and comparatively well-priced cocktail, a wine list and a 320-bottle bourbon collection behind the bar that makes it the capital’s biggest. Plus, service was very good, with waitstaff being attentive, enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

Bill for two, including service and a 50% discount on food for the soft launch: £135.69

Atmosphere: 6

Service: 8

Food: 6

Total: 20/30

Block Soho is a new kid on the block recently opening on the intimate St Anne’s Court in the heart of Soho.

Billed as a “reimagined chophouse for a new generation”, there is unsurprisingly a focus on quality cuts of meat cooked over coal. However, equal attention has been paid to the seafood and shellsh oerings.

Expect dishes such as smoked pulled pork with sourdough toast and apple gravy, swordsh chop with samphire butter and fresh shellsh platters, as well as classic steaks sold by weight. There will also be Sunday roasts and a breakfast menu with a “hangover” burger, as well as a daily “Cocktails & Croquettes” happy hour.

With its industrial décor, an abundant cocktail menu and a wine list from small producers, Block Soho is looking to make its mark in the heart of the city, and bring a bit of fun to tradition. blocksoho.com

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here.