Olive Magazine

Our punter says

- Phil Bligh is an operations manager from Stockton Heath, Cheshire. He loves spicy, Asian-style cooking, and his best eating out experience was the tasting menu at Northcote.

Climat is accessed through a dark entrance with a single, subtle sign and up a lift to the rooftop, like something from Gotham City.

The welcome was warm and the décor light and airy, with amazing views over the city, even on a classicall­y rainy Manchester afternoon.

The daily changing menu is based around sharing plates – we were advised to order five or six for two. The wine list is vast and quite daunting but the knowledgea­ble sommelier took time to ask what we liked and recommende­d a few choices within our budget, and he chose well.

First up, a curried lamb vol-au-vent – meaty and lightly spiced, with a yogurt base and garnished with crispy fried curry leaves. These added even more flavour – not from the seventies, this one.

Next, a rich octopus and morcilla stew, with the crunchy breadcrumb­s adding needed texture to the velvety soft octopus and garlic mayo.

The jerusalem artichoke with creamy ricotta was a lot for two people. The artichoke was soft and nutty but a little gritty – it didn’t spoil the dish but I queried it.

They didn’t quibble and took it off the bill immediatel­y, which was a nice touch, although they didn’t need to do so.

The star of the show was a flaky halibut with a rich burnt butter and charcoal-roasted squash. Capers and lemon added balance to what was a superb plate of food.

Finally, we ordered roasted duck breast from the larger plates section, and large it was – so much so, we had to take some home. Simply presented with radicchio, I would have preferred it pinker, but it was still juicy and tender.

We didn’t have room for dessert unfortunat­ely, so that will wait for next time.

Overall, we loved it. The atmosphere was relaxed, the staff were all great and the bill was less than I expected.

Bill for two, including service: £171.58 Atmosphere: 9

Service: 10

Food: 9

Total: 28/30

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