10 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT Emil a-R magna
Executive chef Filippo La Gattuta, shares his favourite producers from a region of Italy famed for its food and drink
1 PARMIGIANO REGGIANO
Parmigiano reggiano is an art in EmiliaRomagna. The Big Mamma Group sources all its parmigiano from Caseificio Gennari, who have been making cheese by hand for 70 years and now make 100 wheels of parmigiano per day. It’s DOP protected and must be aged for a minimum of 12 months to classify as parmigiano – but ageing can last as long as an intense 100 months. Every 40kg wheel of parmesan uses around 500 litres of milk, giving rich, creamy and nutty results.
2 LAMBRUSCO
Forget any preconceptions you may have of lambrusco. Organic vineyard Venturini Baldini produces varied styles of sparkling red and rosé lambrusco, and aims to restore the reputation of this local indigenous grape. The fermenting methods used are similar to champagne production and the resulting lambrusco is best served chilled at aperitivo hour or the start of a meal.
3 PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA
Up in the hills near the border with Tuscany lies Prosciuttificio San Nicola, a producer of silky PDO Prosciutto di Parma. The ham (which can only be made from the back legs of large white pigs who’ve had a specific diet) is salted (no other flavourings or additives are used) and passes through several different ageing chambers to gradually cure over a year.
4 CULATELLO DI ZIBELLO
Culatello, another extra-special DOP ham from San Nicola, is another favourite. Made from the thighs of pigs raised in Emilia-Romagna, this large egg-shaped ham is one of Italy’s most luxurious salumi and an antipasti favourite.
5 BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Making balsamic vinegar is a labour of love and you have to be patient. Venturini Baldini uses its 32 hectares of lambrusco grapes to produce balsamic vinegar as well as fizz. Grape juice is pressed, cooked, then fermented and aged for a minimum of 12 years in wooden barrels. The gradual process of evaporation (70 litres of grape juice produces three litres of vinegar) produces the glossy, sweet and intense final result. You only need a few drops.
6 GNOCCO FRITTO
Gnocco fritto are squares of dough made with lard and then deep-fried into light, puffy pillows. They’re a moreish starter or aperitivo snack, served with salamis, parma ham or culatello to lay on top for the perfect bite.
7 FILLED PASTA
From flat square tortelli to tiny cappelletti (commonly served in clear broth), filled pastas are an Emilian staple. You can learn how to make delicate tortelloni (a larger and slightly different shape to tortellini) the traditional hand-rolled way by experts at the Portici
Academy in Bologna (porticiacademy.it), then enjoy them filled with creamy spinach and ricotta, and tossed in sage butter to serve.
8 MORTADELLA
You’ll find mortadella in varied forms across the region – find it cut into cubes and served with chunks of parmesan for aperitivo, sliced thinly into sandwiches or even draped onto pizza. With its distinctive marbled pink appearance (it must contain at least 15% small cubes of fat) and studded with black peppercorns or bright pistachios, this is a cooked rather than cured product and Bologna mortadella carries PGI status, which means it can only be made a certain way within specified areas.
9 ERBAZZONE
Erbazzone is a flat pie commonly eaten for lunch, particularly in the summer months. Not too dissimilar to a Greek spanakopita, the thin and shatteringly crisp pastry (traditionally made with lard) holds a filling of spinach, ham or pancetta and the all-important parmigiano.
10 GELATO
No Emilia-Romagna tour is complete without a daily gelato – after all, the world’s only gelato university is just outside Bologna. I like family-run ice cream parlour Cremeria Cavour in Bologna, which has a dizzying array of flavours – try the Piazza Grande with amaretto and caramelised almonds, or go for tangy fresh raspberry and top with a scoop of whipped cream.