WILDLIFE HAVEN OFFERS WILD RETREAT
Ella Foote discovers unexpected beauty and wild adventure on the Isle of Sheppey
The sun is hot despite nearing dusk, the sky empty of clouds but full of swooping birds. I ask a man beside me, also looking at the birds, “Are they swallows or house martins?” I wanted to sound like I wasn’t completely ignorant.
“Neither” he says, “they are sand martins.” We continue to watch the birds and he goes on to describe the difference between the two. Despite the spontaneous lesson, I am not sure I could spot the difference. The birds move fast and almost randomly, but you can see them feasting on the glut of summer bugs. Walkers, twitchers and wildlife enthusiasts are all migrating back towards the main track away from the expansive nature reserve. We smugly dawdle knowing we are here for the night.
Elmley Nature Reserve on the Isle of Sheppey in Kent is the only national nature reserve that you can stay on overnight. The 3,300-acre site is family-owned and managed. By day it welcomes wildlife seekers and walkers but come dusk, it transforms into a place where nature reveals itself quietly to those sleeping nearby. As well as chance encounters with animal and bird life, you can also sink into a cool pond or swim from a private beach.
Driving over The Swale from the mainland we cross over Kingsferry bridge in the shadow of the massive Sheppey Crossing. To our right there is a large concrete factory, the tide is out, so a large amount of mud is below us. My travelling companions look out the window and then at me with curious eyes. It doesn’t look great, and Sheppey’s reputation isn’t much better, but with the promise of a swim and immersing into nature for a couple of days I have faith we are beginning an adventure unlike any other. We pull off the main road onto a dirt-gravel track. The adventure begins here. The two-mile long driveway to our destination offers a safari experience while we sit comfortably in our car.
The Isle of Sheppey was once a group of isles, Elmley an island of its own. Today Elmley is the jewel in the crown, a captivating landscape which offers wildlife undisturbed marshland, grazing and grasses. I spot a buzzard on the safari, but my interest starts to wane as we near our accommodation. A small cluster of white bell tents poke out of meadow grass with views across the wetlands and as I look across the grassland I spot two huge hares on their hind legs, peering at us. They are beautiful. I stop the car and we
watch as they hop around each other before leaping away from us. Already it feels special to witness the creatures that make Elmley their home.
There are several accommodation options at Elmley and all of them have incredible views across the reserve. There are custommade shepherd huts and cabins, bell tents and an 18th-century farmhouse. Each has been designed for retreat and escape, encouraging you to fully immerse in the surrounding nature. You stay right in the middle of the reserve so you can fully explore the area throughout your stay. We stayed in a meadow bell tent which faces east providing a spectacular sunrise. Each tent is positioned apart from others, so you have privacy and space to yourself. As well as the fun and beauty of sleeping under canvas each tent comes with a proper bed, comfy mattress, fresh linen, duvet, blankets and hot water bottles. If you have children, extra beds and linen are provided. A short walk away there are flushing toilets and hot, brilliant showers with beautiful toiletries – my kind of camping! Each tent has its own fire pit with a grill for barbecues, or there is a nearby camp kitchen with enough equipment to cook a family meal. In the morning you can order hot breakfast delivered to your tent to be enjoyed with views from your bed. The camp kitchen has an endless supply of tea and coffee for you to take back to your tent with enamel teapots and mugs.
We arrived at the end of a hot week in August. The weather was due to turn so we made the most of the conditions and went to find the private beach and swimming pond. Elmley is renowned for its wading birds but also draws enthusiasts wanting to catch sight of bees, dragonflies and flora. Over 40 species of birds breed and raise their young at Elmley and at night you can seek out the owls from
"Today Elmley is the jewel in the crown, a captivating landscape which offers wildlife undisturbed marshland, grazing and grasses"
Fun for all the family! And luxurious camping options to retire to afterwards